F 548 

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SECOND 




BOOK 

OF TH& 



KORTH SHORE 





Highways a n aBwAYS 
Past and Present 





Class F s* H 5 

Book ^7 WS\ 

Copyright W 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



SECOND BOOK of the NORTH SHORE 




THE HEIGHTS AT "MIRALAGO' 
Highland Park, 111. 











SECOND 






BOOK of the NORTH SHORE 






HOMES, GARDENS, LANDSCAPES 






HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS 






PAST AND PRESENT 






By MARIAN A. WHITE 






Author and Lecturer 












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CHAPEL TOWER 






Lake Forest College 






CHICAGO 






J. HARRISON WHITE 






1911 






Price Two Dollars 











Copyright. 191 1, by J. Harrison While 






TO THE 

PATRONS AND SUBSCRIBERS 

WHO HAVE MADE 
ITS PRODUCTION POSSIBLE 

THIS BOOK 

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY 

THE PUBLISHER 



$£• 



(TO 



The franklin Co. 
engravers and printers 

CHICAGO 



©CI.A30(H*)i)7 



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FOREWORD 

The Treaty of Chicago, whereby the Indian, on the twentieth day 
of September, eighteen hundred and thirty-three, ceded all that 
remained of his birthright, in Illinois and Wisconsin, was consum- 
mated on the North Shore. Therefore the ''First Book of the North 
Shore" (1910), naturally dwells upon the traditions and legends 
associated with Chicago and this immediate environment. The 
author, in the preparation of this earlier work, realized how much 
of traditional interest, the "North Shore" in Lake County, possessed. 
In the "Second Book of the North Shore" effort has been made to 
tell its story. As a similar work on the highways and byways in the 
same county, but a little more remote from the west shore line of the 
Great Lake, is in contemplation, but brief mention is made of these 
particular localities, and, only in so far as their traditions are closely 
associated with those of Waukegan, Lake Forest and Highland Park. 
In the first work, Cook County was largely represented. The present 
work is also illustrative of the "present" in Glencoe, Hubbard Woods, 
Kenilworth, Wilmette, Evanston, Birchwood, Rogers Park, Edge- 
water, and Glen View. Later, the author hopes to feature the past 
and present of Evanston in an illustrated work of like kind. "Out 
of scraps and fragments, diamond dust of the past," must we link 
together, not only that which is of import locally, but that which 
shall swell the budget of tradition, nationally. 






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J. OGDEN ARMOUR'S SUMMER HOME 
Lake Forest 



Highways and Byways 
Past and Present 

THE HIGHWAY IS OPENED 

Thou givest all 
An equal chance — to work, to do their best — 
Free land, free hand — thy son must work or fall 
Grow strong or die ! That message shrieks the storm-wind's call ! 

A. C. Laut. 

BEFORE the seventeenth century had rounded to maturity, 
England and France were vieing with each other for territorial 
aggrandizement in that newer country, far, far beyond the 
Atlantic seaboard. The latter territory was still in the throes of 
pioneer development, while that of the Great Lakes, the unexplored 
region, became the land of romance, of heroic deeds, of new pleasures 
and wealth in the imagination of those who were willing to brave 
its hardships. 

The church, too, was caught in the spirit of the age. Its mis- 
sionaries, young men of learning and of unquenchable zeal, were 
urged to join the various expeditions of exploration with a view to 
converting the aborigines to the Faith. A brave and noble band were 



Page seven 




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Page eight 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

these ambassadors of the Cross. How they struggled to gain con- 
verts amid hardships inconceivable, as well as their sufferings from 
exposure and fatigue, can better be imagined than described. Their 
letters tell very little of these features of the expedition, so thoroughly 
had self become absorbed in caring for others. Yet one may read 
between the lines of these precious documents. 

The Indians had brought to the traders of the Upper St. Lawrence 
wonderful stories of a country in the vicinity of a Great River which 
no white man had seen. Across seas spread this legend of the Mis- 
sissippi Valley, and in due course, the highways and byways of river, 
lake and wilderness trail became familiar to explorer, missionary, 
voyageur, trader and adventurer, each and all urging their impetuous 
way northward and westward. Advance or retreat, encouragement 
or despair, according to the will or notion of the warring Indians 
through whose territory they must of necessity pass; beset with 
privations of every kind ; running the gauntlet of capture and torture 
worse than death, undaunted and courageous to recklessness, passed 
band after band of those wilderness pioneers, and messengers of the 
story of the Cross from New France over the route which might bring 
them to this Eldorado. 

Nicolet, Groseillier and Radison, Joliet and Marquette, La Salle, 
Tonty and Hennepin, each in due course making their way to Green 
Bay, singly or in company, and from thence journeying to thg west, 
northwest and southwest, in their ambition to annex territory to the 
New France that had established itself at Quebec, as well as for the 
conversion of the aborigines to Christianity. Associated with each 
and all of these names is an interesting amount of legend and tradi- 
tion but partially told. 

It is early Autumn and the year 1673. The wood-crested bluffs 
of the shore north from the "Chicagou" are struggling to retain 
pretentions of summer finery, while coquettishly appropriating frag- 
ments of that regal splendor suggestive of the ripening season, that 
imperceptibly melts into the rime of winter. Fair and fickle wert 
thou, dear old woodlands! Even as today. Yet 'twixt thy changing 
moods, through vistas that were fast telling the story of crumpled 
leaf and wind-swept distances, on this particular Autumn day in 
question, might be found an Indian watching the purpled billows 
making sport of two frail canoes. 

A moment before and his bow was taut ! But the graceful creature 
now peacefully browsing in the depths of yon ravine, owes its present 
immunity to the fact that its would-be slayer has become distraught 
from suspicion. Cherished as one of the special gifts of " Manitou 
the Mighty," the red man experiences feelings of resentment toward 
the purposeful urging of two birch-bark canoes over his own particular 
highway. Besides the merry chansons of the irrepressible coureurs 
de bois, fall on his ear as if in defiance or challenge. 

Among the occupants of the foremost canoe he singles out one 
with darkly-bearded face, and notes with apprehension that a pair of 
eagle eyes are keenly scanning the bluffs, while significant gesticula- 
tions are made in the same direction. The throb of irritation, that 
like an arrow pierced the bosom of the Indian, now yields to one of 



Page nine 




Page ten 






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Pa^re eleven 




Page twelve 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 



less antagonism, as he becomes aware of a wasted and gaunt form 
enveloped in a dark, travel-stained garment, being borne along by 
the less boisterous movements of two engages, in the second canoe. 

"Black Robe!" Yes, the Indian had already become familiar 
with its significance, for not so many moons had waxed and waned 
since a "Black Robe" (Father Allouez) had told to the Winnebagoes 
in the northland the Story of One who had died to save. He was 
a Pale Face, as was the Black Robe who brought the message. And 
now a number of pale faces and another Black Robe are adown the 
waterway bordered by the favorite hunting grounds! What does it 
portend? The Indian soon learned. 

Had the darkly-bearded man (Joliet) succeeded in conveying the 
valuable memoranda and charts outlining this particular expedition 
of exploration, the North Shore might be more rife with tradition and 
legend than at present. How did its bluffs and dunes, its forests and 
ravines, its inlets and sandy and pebbled beaches impress the first 
white men who dared its mutable waters? 

But the Lachine Rapids of the beautiful St. Lawrence hold within 
their maw of turmoil and never-ceasing action the story we would 
fain tell. Nothing in the way of discovery and exploration seems 
difficult in these modern days of scientific acquirement, and if these 
documents were on parchment and protected by skin covering, it is 
not improbable that at some time in the future when the Lachine 
Rapids come under the manipulation of engineers, bent on making 
them navigable, that the lost documents will be found and in such 
condition as to be of service to those interested. 

Marquette, the gentle missionary, has left in his diary unmis- 
takeable evidence of his voyage adown the North Shore in the autumn 
of 1674. Two shelter places are clearly defined in this particular 
vicinity — in the neighborhood of what is now Lake Bluff and Evanston 
(See "Book of North Shore", 1910). Two local historians claim the 
present site of Waukegan as one of the shelter places on this particular 
expedition to the Illini. This is not an improbable conclusion. The 
band of Pottawattomies, in five canoes acting as escort, would be 
familiar with the shore line and its advantageous inlets for rest and 
shelter, as well as its immunity from unfriendly expressions on the 
part of the natives. But the assertion that Marquette landed some- 
where in the vicinity of what is now designated Waukegan, and from 
thence journeyed over the inland trail to the mouth of the Chicago 
river, has no foundation in fact. 

True, the smaller band of Illini, whom he had suffered to accom- 
pany him in four canoes, were not in favor of the water— the Great 
Lake in particular. They were not "canoe-men" in the same sense 
as the Pottawattomies. Therefore, supposing the Illini to have sug- 
gested the inland trail, the Pottawattomies, the all-powerful tribe in 
this vicinity at that period, would have over-ruled the proposal, for 
Marquette was not in condition, physically, to undergo the fatigue 
attending this latter route. 

The lake, in spite of stress of weather, seemed the more feasible, 
for in his canoe the missionary might be borne along in reclining 
position when fatigue necessitated that change. Again, Lake Mich- 



Page thirteen 




Page fourteen 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 




Photo by Benin 



A TURN IN THE ROAD 
Lake Forest, 111. 



igan was then, as today, smiling in its azure bewitchingness one hour, 
the next finding it the plaything of winds, which transform its placid 
waters into heaving bulkheads, threatening dire destruction to all 
craft caught within their power. And also as today, after a night of 
storm and unrest, the sun rose fair and promising from the eastern 
horizon, bestowing upon lake, bluff and woodlands a beneficence of 
warmth and brightness like the smile of heaven itself. 

So our early voyageurs took heart of grace, and, encouraged by 
the trend of the wind to the westward, where the faraway prairies, 
touched with the decorative effects of autumn, were waving their long 
grasses in sea-like motion, and in phantasies of gold, amethyst and 
crimson, launched their canoes on the sappharine waters, and again 
missionary-explorer and his engages, as well as the two bands of 
friendly disposed Indians, are gliding toward the mouth of the 
"Chicagou." 

The ice-floes of the same shore were braved by Father Claude 
Allouez, in the winter season of 1676 and 1677. What a world of 
tradition and romance might be wrought from the passing of this 
second heroic soldier of the Cross adown our storm-lashed shores! 
Father Allouez was no longer young. He had endured great hard- 
ships among the Indians of Lake Superior previous to his first coming 
to Green Bay. It was after Marquette, journeying northward on the 
eastern shore of the Lake, was seized by illness, terminating in death, 
that Allouez journeyed to the Illinois Indians, among whom he 
worked until the coming of La Salle. 



Page fifteen 




Page sixteen 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 




A VISTA IN THE LAKE PARK 
Lake Forest, 111. 

La Salle ! Another name with which to conjure in the legendary 
and traditional of this particular vicinity. Scholar, gentleman, 
explorer, La Salle became ambitious for his country's territorial 
expansion. His imagination fired by the legends that reached him 
of the vast, unexplored wilderness westward of the New France, 
La Salle forced himself here, there and everywhere with the impetu- 
osity of the whirlwind, so active, enthusiastic and intrepid was he in 
urging the extension of French dominion in the New World. Link 
his name with that of the devoted Tonty, with Hennepin, Membre 
and a host of others, and a whole volume of tradition and legend 
might be woven around this combination of church and state, of 
political intrigue and treachery. 

It was La Salle who first introduced to the waters of Lake Mich- 
igan the forerunner of the white-winged craft that was later to skim 
or plough its waters in the interest of commerce. More than dis- 
courteous and lacking in hospitality was our dear old lake at this 
particular period. It was nothing less than brutal in its treatment 
of the frail, bird-like vessel that had come to it as a messenger of 
promise. And somewhere, no one knows just where, the "Griffon" 
(forty-five tons burden) fraught with La Salle's earnest hopes and 
heavily laden with a cargo of valuable furs while on its return trip 
eastward, battered and affrighted, sank, with broken pinions beneath 
the relentless waters. 

Six years have elapsed since the Indian beheld with mingled 
emotions of curiosity and resentment the first invasion of the shore 



Page seventeen 




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I G H W A V S AND BYWAYS — PAST AND p RES E N T 




k 



Photo by Beinn 



BROADLY SWEEPING RIGHT AND LEFT 
Lake Forest, 111. 



line by the pale face. He had then been somewhat mollified by the 
sight of the " Black Robe," the order which he had learned to respect. 
Now a little to the northward and within shelter of the bluffs, the 
members of another expedition have been forced to the beach by 
stress of weather. Upon landing they discover signs of Indian 
occupancy, although no red man is in sight. Appointing a guard 
for the night the remainder of the company settle themselves for 
sleep. But the sentinel (and who shall blame him?) screened himself 
from the bitter chill and torrential downpour. 

The Indians were watching, and when opportunity for a closer 
investigation was afforded, they came silently down their accustomed 
trail, and keeping closely within the shelter of the bluffs stealthily 
approached the sleepers. Nearer and nearer they crept and closely 
scanned the faces of the slumbering men. The rugged lineaments 
and resolute expression of one of the number drew forth the exclama- 
tion of "Big Chief!" The curiosity of the Indian has ultimately got 
the better of his wonted wariness with the result that the band of 
prowlers is discovered. The red men are encouraged to come for- 
ward, and protestations of friendliness on their part are received by 
La Salle and his men in good faith. Small gifts were bestowed upon 
them and they departed. 

The grey lines of dawn had no sooner tricked the eastern horizon, 
than the members of the expedition awakened to the fact that they 
had been the prey of thieves. La Salle knew the Indian character 
and he acted accordingly. Followed by his men and the three friars 



Page nineteen 




Page twenty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

he took to the trail and seizing a young warrior held him as hostage 
while he pushed his way toward the chief and boldly demanded the 
return of the stolen articles, at the same time making him under- 
stand that in the event of his request not being honored, the life of 
the prisoner would be forfeited. 

The Indians, conscious of the fact that they outnumbered the 
white men, prepared to fight. What a moment for the intrepid 
explorer and his little band! But fearless, and resolute, and with 
guns in hand they faced more than a hundred yelling, whooping 
savages, yet forbore from being the first to attack. The Indians, 
surprised and doubtful, also hesitated to begin the fight. These pale 
faces seemed to know no fear. So they resorted to a parley, whereby 
most of the stolen articles were restored. 

But the Indian of the North Shore had now become familiar with 
another kind of pale face — the fighting man, as well as with that 
other "medicine man," the "Gray Robe." It is not so very long 
before he feels the power and purpose of the one for whose imple- 
ments of warfare he hungered and the earnestness and zeal of the 
other. Then "Black Robe" and "Gray Robe" became associated in 
his intelligence as "Long Robe," and he was never again quite as 
interested in that Wonderful Story of the Cross. There were doubts 
within, and fears without, and he began to look with suspicion upon 
the pale face, whether he came in the garb of priest or trader, and 
he rested his hopes in his own Manitou, regardless of the self-sacrificing 
lives of the two orders of missionaries that strove to bring his people 
within the Christian fold. 




THE STONE GATE 
Lake Forest 



Page twenty-one 




Page twenty-two 




APPROACH TO THE ONWENTSIA CLUB 
Lake Forest, 111. 



GLIMPSES OF LAKE COUNTY 

"We pluck from the vines they set ; 

We walk in the ways they made ; 
We harvest their fields ; and their forests yet 

Are giving us rest and shade. 

The fathers — the men of old 

Who builded a place for us, 
A country magnificent ; brave and bold 

In their faith all glorious." 

IN the early period of its political history, Lake County was a 
part of Cook County ; that is it was in the Chicago precinct or 
election district. September, 1835, the county commissioners of 
Cook, created a new precinct which comprised most of the territory 
north of Chicago, naming it the Lake Precinct. March first, 1839, 
by act of the general assembly, the boundaries and distinguishing title 
were bestowed on what is now known as Lake County. It received 
its designation from the fact that its whole eastern boundary is 
defined by the Great Lake as well as in consideration of its territory — 
about 460 square miles — embracing a number of smaller lakes, forty 
of which were familiar at the time, the number since discovered and 
acknowledged, reaching the hundred mark. 

Little is known of the ancient people that possessed this charm- 
ing section of inland lakes, of rich forest growth, and undulating 
stretches of open prairie. The Mound Builders were here, but they, 



Page hventy-thrce 




Page twenty-four 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

as the Indian, had no written language, therefore the little tradition 
gathered from their occupancy has been through the excavation of a 
few mounds which have yielded relics of much interest to the student 
of archaeology. That this prc-historic people were superior to our 
aboriginal, even as the latter is of inferior race to the white man, 
there is little doubt, and that Lake County was a favorite territory 
of the Indian, we are sure. Game was here in abundance; lakes and 
streams furnished a variety of fish, while the marshes became the 
breeding places of a variety of waterfowl. Our red brother preyed 
upon these as a means of sustenance, as well as to obtain skin for 
clothing, so when the first settlers came, they, too, found game, fish 
and fowl in rich variety. 

Prairie and forest were penetrated by a network of byways that 
intimated a direct route to some given point. Perhaps a war trail 
pushed itself directly in the vicinity of a hostile tribe. Later, the 
same trail designated the most direct route to the cabin of hunter 
or trader, or to some small settlement of the pale face. Other trails 
were the outcome of the chase, certain pathways through forest or 
woodland, or over undulating prairie, designating the habitual route 
of the tribe when on a hunting expedition. There were trails exempli- 
fying the migratory spirit of whole villages, for parallel with the 
moccasined-patted footpath were the deeply indented traces of the 
tepee sticks. 

Through the intricate forest ways the Indian would frequently 
twist or bend the lithe branches of a young sapling in such form 
that it would ultimately grow and show a marked difference from 
anything of neighboring development, thereby designating a particular 
route which would afterward become a known trail. The white oak 
and the white elm trees seem to have been selected along the North 
Shore for this purpose. 

A few of these trail trees remain. Some of the early settlers 
recognized them as landmarks of import so made an effort toward 
their preservation. Others, and these were in the majority, con- 
sidered them freaks of nature, or "deformed trees," and so destroyed 
them. The ax was the most useful of implements to the pioneer, 
but he did not always wield it judiciously. Historical landmarks 
were destroyed, and highways and byways unnecessarily denuded of 
that which he could never hope to replace. 

With regard to the Indian trails in Lake County Hon. C. A. Part- 
ridge, who was brought to this region by his parents when but a child 
of twelve months, and who is now in the ripening years of an honor- 
able and useful life, and after becoming personally familiar with the 
trend of these byways of the past, says the "red man without 
scientific instruments and with no knowledge of the surveyor's art, 
in a country dotted with lakes and sloughs, laid out long routes of 
travel in a way to avoid and pass between the numerous undrained 
ponds and marshes, and yet allow travel in a straight line." 

In 1835 one of the oldest of these trails on the North Shore, under 
the supervision of General Scott, U. S. A., was converted into a high- 
way for military purposes, thus linking "Little Fort" (Waukegan), 
Green Bay and Chicago. This highway is still known as the Green 



Page twenty- five 




Page twenty-six 



HIG HWA YS A ND BYWAYS — PAST AND P RESENT 

Bay Road, and its greatest charm and picturesqueness lies within 
the boundaries of Lake County. 

Soon after the evolution of the old trail into that of a military 
road, a plank road pushed its way westward and northward, also 
over a byway of the past, from Chicago into Lake County, where in 
the neighborhood of Indian Creek it crossed the Des Plaines and 
united with the Green Bay Road about a mile north of Liberty ville. 
In less than a year this latter road became a stage route, and though 
the vehicle used was nothing but a common lumber wagon it received 
added dignity in being drawn by four horses, and as pioneer repre- 
sentative of the United States Mail service through Lake County. 
Previous to this, mail had been carried by runners between Chicago 
and Green Bay, over the old historic trail before mentioned. 

On the arrival of the first settlers in Lake County, the Indian 
realized his day of doom was at hand, so he peacefully acquiesced in 
the new order. True, he caused the pioneer settler some discomfort 
by tenaciously hovering in the vicinity of farm or cabin, and per- 
chance, appropriating that upon which he had set his fancy, but as 
a rule he was orderly and inclined to be peaceful, except when under 
the influence of the white man's "fire water." The final treaty by 
which the Indians ceded their right to this particular territory had 
not been consummated when the first settlers came to the county, 
and in spite of the warnings issued by the government, a few daring 
pioneers staked claims while the Indian was still the lawful possessor 
of the land. By this time the red man had become somewhat pro- 
ficient in the use of firearms, his children alone using bow and arrow. 
So products of the chase became objects of trade and barter between 
himself and the earlier white settlers. The latter found some prim- 
itive attempts at cultivation of the soil, and corn, squashes and beans 
were struggling for mastery under these crude conditions of farming. 

By 1839 the Indian title was extinguished and the tribes were 
gradually coralled into reservations beyond the Mississippi. As in 
previous history the red man's abandonment of territory meant the 
white man's settlement thereon, and Lake County proved no excep- 
tion to this rule. The white man, as the Indian, preferred the vicinity 
of rivers and streams, so the first real influx of settlers to Lake County 
selected the banks of the Des Plaines river which traverses the county 
from north to south at an average distance of six miles west of the 
Great Lake. The French explorers designated this river in the old 
maps as "Aux Plaines," while later it became localized on modern 
maps as "O 'Plain." In early times it had gone by the name of the 
Des Plaines River, signifying river of the plains, while to the Indian 
it had been familiar as the " She-shick-ma-wish-sip-pe, " meaning 
"soft maple tree river." 

There was a number of creeks in this vicinity, all of which were 
distinguished by Indian names of significance, and those which have 
not been dried up by evaporation, or by drainage, still preserve the 
Anglo-Saxonized interpretation of the aboriginal title. One may 
roam throughout this region today, wondering if tradition is not 
playing him false in its assertion that here in the long — and yet not 
so very long ago (1836), a boat was rowed and poled up the north 



Page twenty- seven 




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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

branch of the Chicago River to its source — the Dady Slough — a little 
west of the present site of Waukegan. 

This boat resolved itself into a sort of relief expedition, its cargo 
consisting of thirty bushels of potatoes and other badly needed sup- 
plies for the families of the settlers. So far as can be learned, in the 
person of Jacob Miller was combined that of captain and crew, pro- 
prietor and sole occupant of the pioneer river-boat that pushed its 
way over the birch-bark-canoe byway of the Indian. And it speaks 
well for the peaceful attitude of the Indian at this time, who, it will 
be remembered, was still the "lawful possessor of the land," that 
the courageous pale face reached his ultimate destiny without let or 
hindrance and with his scalp still safe under his twist of red handker- 
chief. It is a pity that Jacob Miller left no detailed account of this 
expedition. Yet, tramping beside parts of this water-course today, 
one realizes some of the difficulties encountered by this intrepid boat- 
man, whose name and that of his descendants figure largely and 
honorably in the history and evolution of Lake County. 

Legends of the importance of grist mills and saw mills, keeping 
parts of this same waterway busy and excited in its pioneer work 
of turning the old type of waterwheel, are many. Today these 
designated sites show either a dwindling, lifeless stream, or a sinuous 
trail of stagnant water, by courtesy, designated "river," that has 
neither current nor power sufficient to float a toy boat or turn a 
bauble wheel. But communities have grown and flourished here, 
and today, smiling farmlands and enterprising cities and villages all 
bear evidence of that which is up-to-date and progressive, while still 
retaining that subtle charm of an interesting and historic yesterday. 

The next desirable location for the early settlers proved to be 
the territory adjacent to and in the immediate vicinity of the old 
trail. Here, on the Green Bay Road, in the early forties, a scattering 
of pioneers might be found whose acres trended toward the lovely 
valley westward, or eastward toward the beautifully timbered por- 
tions nearer the lake. In the aeons that have come and gone, long 
before the coming of the Mound Builders and the Indian, this ridge, 
according to students of archaeology, was the boundary of the lake 
itself. So in the early history of Lake County this former bluff that 
had in the infinite ages of which there is no record, defined the 
boundary of the waters which are now a mile or more distant from 
it, and over which the prairie grasses waved and the lordly forest 
trees towered, in the early forties of the last century, is found the 
pioneer home-builder. 

In these years, and in the vicinity of what we now know as Lake 
Forest and Highland Park, the one-time Indian trail and military 
highway became conscious of a new order. There was an unfamiliar 
sound penetrating this silent highway. It was the ring of the wood- 
man's ax. Presently — within the clearing made by the slaughter of 
the monarchs that had for centuries spread their beneficence over 
the red man's sinuous byways, whose limbs had become sturdy and 
gnarled during the passing of tribe after tribe of the most interesting 
and powerful of savage nations, might be seen a little dun-colored 
structure, so in keeping with the hues of the forest itself that it 



Page twenty-nine 




Page thirty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 



imparts a grace note to the scale of magnificent vistas by which it 
is environed. 

The first log cabin was not one foot larger than absolutely neces- 
sary. It was generally the product of a single man's labor. By 
and bye he induced a woman to share it with him. Perhaps he 
traveled weary distances, either on foot or by ox team, to win her 
as his wife and persuade her to come to the log cabin in the wilderness 
and make a home for them both. Brave and sturdy were the men 
of pioneer times! But the women, considering the conditions, were 
even more courageous and buoyant. Then honor to them both. 

Together they blazed a trail whose glory scintillates in the homes 
of the nation. Their descendants are still building homes and empire. 
The mountains have yielded to their energy and perseverance, the 
desert smiles and blossoms as they pass. The snows of Alaska 
recognize their indomitable will and never-tiring energy; the tropics 
languish no longer in do-nothingness after the magic of their mood 
has penetrated its somnolency. No monument is needed to per- 
petuate their memory, for they are a vital part of the nation itself, 
and so long as home-life is honored and the nation's best asset is 
found in the integrity of its representatives America will be all that 
these early pioneers dared hope it would be — a power for good among 
the nations of the earth. 

After awhile, family emergencies necessitated a second and larger 
home, or an addition to the first one. This time the man did not 
hew and cut and build alone. Other settlers had, in the meantime, 
located within a mile, maybe five or ten miles of distance, and the 
neighborly, helpful spirit prevailing under conditions fostered by this 
early time, a second and more commodious log structure came into 
being. When finished a house-warming was in order. Among the 
invited guests, be sure there was one, and perhaps two, who knew 
how to manipulate flute or violin, either or both of these instruments 
having been smuggled in among his other "pioneer belongings." 
Then feet were compelled to keep rhythmic movement, while eyes 
blinked through tears both joyous and sad as strains reminiscent of 
days that knew not the hardship and privations of the later years 
were wafted from end to end of the primitive, yet happy home in 
the wilderness. 

Schoolhouses, also built of logs, were used for religious services 
and for community gatherings, political and otherwise, as occasion 
demanded. Legend tells of the first schoolhouse in Lake County 
being built at Libertyville in the Autumn of 1836; that it was of 
the block-house style— that is the logs were hewn on both sides. 
This schoolhouse was built, as most of the schoolhouses of this period, 
by subscription, and supported by contributions. There were many 
bachelors in Libertyville and its vicinity at this time, and to their 
credit be it said, the little log schoolhouse not only received better 
care in its building, but larger financial support from this band of 
enterprising pioneers, who builded better than they knew. 

It was the period of rail fences, and what an amount of time and 
labor was expended in the making of the same ! Ax, maul and wedge 
were the onlv available tools and the labor commanded a remuner- 



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Page thirty-two 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

ation of one cent per rail. These fences meant greater onslaughts 
upon the forests, and as timber was plenty, no effort was made toward 
economizing the supply. Stacks of rails would be piled ready for 
use or for sale only to be later devoured by prairie fires that destroyed 
the already constructed fences. Wood was the only fuel and this 
was used steadily for more than thirty years after the first timber 
had been felled in the region of the Green Bay Road, while steam- 
boats and railroads, that followed some years after the first settlers, 
used wood as fuel continuously until the early eighties. 

So the magnificent forests seen by the pioneer were fast tending 
toward destruction, and the fact that the actual Lake Shore, with its 
intercepting ravines, forbade easy transportation of material, this 
particular vicinity would also have suffered the fate of the earlier 
settled regions, and much of its attractiveness and beauty — -its charm 
of the present — have been lost. 

In this day of agricultural labor-saving devices, it is difficult to 
bring oneself in complete sympathy with the tiller of the soil at a 
period when the "back-breaking cradle" was the principal harvest- 
ing machine and when threshing was performed by a vigorous wield- 
ing of the flail or by the treading-out process, when grass was cut 
with a scythe in the hand of the laborer, and the hay loaded and 
unloaded by a fork in the hands of each individual of a group of 
workers. The slow process of hand-seeding has given place to the 
more expeditious methods of "planter" and "cultivator" devices. 
These pioneer settlers wrought and struggled and conquered under 
conditions of which we can form no conception. 

Yesterday the plow and the shovel were the only available road- 
making devices, the forests being stripped in order to corduroy 
marshy places, and later, when sawmills were at hand, material was 
provided for the planking of roads. Today, over highways where the 
ox team plodded in the long ago, the automobile may now safely pass 
at a speed forbidden by most of the municipalities through which it 
recklessly appropriates right of way. 

Road-making has not yet reached perfection, to be sure, but Lake 
County has some finely constructed highways, quite a few of which 
stretch over trails associated with a past that must ever be of interest 
to those who realize that the fostering of tradition and legendary 
lore ultimately trends to poetical expression, either by pen or by 
brush. In other words, an art, national of type, can never be evolved 
without tradition and legend upon which to build and create the 
coloring of bygone periods. 

Township organization was not adopted in Lake County until 
1850, and the first county seat was established on the site now 
occupied by Libertyville and designated Burlington. The county was 
divided into sixteen townships, four of which border Lake Michigan, 
and three of these, Waukegan, Shields and Deerfield become of 
particular interest in this present narrative of the North Shore. 



Page thirty-three 




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Page thirty-eight 




GYMNASIUM 
Lake Forest College 



LAKE FOREST— THE COLLEGE CITY 
OF THE NORTH SHORE 

When courage fails, or hopes are dying, 

Our thoughts shall ever turn to thee; 
Our watchword be, till time is ended, 

"For God, Lake Forest, Victory!" 

Alvah W. Doran C93.) 

THE story of Lake Forest is so closely affiliated with its educational 
institutions that one cannot be written without aid of the other. 
Yet is there a period when the first white settler came, when the 
first little dun-colored structure, designated "home," appeared on 
the old Indian trail, known as the Green Bay Road. This was in 
1834, when settlers first came to Lake County, and at the time when 
the Indian was still in possession. Perhaps Otis Hinckley, who built 
this first log cabin, came as a hunter and a trader among the abor- 
igines. There are two other names associated with him at this period, 
that of Thomas McLaughlin and John Strong, both of whom had 
pioneer homes in this section of the county. 

That in 1838 there were young folks here needing an education 
is proven by the fact that on the Green Bay Road, and in the vicinity 



Page thirty-nine 




Pi .. 



Page /orty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

of Lake Forest, one William Cunningham taught school in his own 
house. In early times, not only in Lake County, but in other early 
settled communities, the homes were frequently used, not only for 
school purposes, but for religious services. Of these homes, in the 
middle thirties, and of the descendants of the families occupying the 
same, the writer has been unable to gather very little that is pertinent 
to this present narrative. But those who traverse this section of the 
old Indian trail, which later became the military Highway, and now 
one of the fine driveways of the county, will note with interest, the 
past and the present closely allied in the home architecture. 

At this particular point the Skokie Valley begins to develop a 
picturesqueness that becomes more and more attractive as one travels 
southward. Its finest development in this vicinity is at the extreme 
south of Lake Forest. Just at this terminating point the Green Bay 
Road assumes some altitude, its eastern boundary being marked by 
beautifully rising ground, said to be the highest point between Chicago 
and Milwaukee, which designates the home site of Mr. J. Kuppen- 
heimer. This acreage evidently covers much of traditional import in 
connection with the Indian occupation. A very important village 
must have been here located, and its position, together with the fact 
that the Skokie is visible for miles, suggests its occupation by the 
representatives of various tribes during a session of Council. This 
site has yielded rich finds of almost everything associated with the 
occupancy of the Indian, while the student becomes imbued with the 
thought, that here, long, long before the red man held his councils, 
another nation builded mounds and earthworks. From this particular 
point of vantage the Skokie is plainly seen trending sinuously toward 
the south. It reaches its culmination of scenic beauty and the charm 
of far-reaching distances, in Highland Park. 

Those building modern homes on the west side of the Green Bay 
Road, in Lake Forest, have faced them toward the valley, with 
driveways as an outlet to the historic highway, while the earlier homes, 
those that succeeded the log cabin period and a decade or so later, 
are found fronting the same highway, with lovely undulations trend- 
ing toward the valley. It is here, and just a little north of West- 
minster Avenue, where a group of the pioneer band of settlers to Lake 
Forest came. On one particular site, now occupied by a charming 
structure of frame -^pome what old-fashioned in style maybe, but with 
interior modern as any up-to-date city mansion, that legend centers 
in the beginnings of Lake Forest. 

The log cabin, which stood a few feet to the north, was retained 
many years after it had been abandoned as a home, from a feeling 
of sentiment. In this cabin was born on March i, 1843, William 
Atteridge, who ultimately became one of the four original students 
in the first graduating class ('62) of the Lake Forest Academy. The 
distinction is also claimed that Mr. Atteridge was the first white child 
born on the North Shore within the limits of Lake County. 

Miss Fanny Atteridge, the sister of Thomas, and who is residing 
in the pleasant homestead before mentioned, was also born in the log 
home and was one of the first students to graduate from Ferry Hall. 
There are some interesting legends connected with the Atteridge log 



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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

home. Mrs. Atteridge, the mother, was a Miss Mary Cole, and she 
lived to the ripe age of ninety-six. 

When Mrs. Atteridge first came to live in the log cabin on the 
Green Bay Trail, the Indians had not yet left the vicinity, and she 
used to see them frequently passing back and forth, while others, 
without invitation, would walk in and stretch themselves in front of 
the hearth. This proves the confidence with which the earlier settlers 
looked upon the Indian. Most of them in their hearts held him as 
an object of commiseration, and treated him accordingly. The door 
was ever on the latch for either wanderer, be he Indian or white man. 
Miss Atteridge says her mother "knew no fear." 

Another time, seeing an Indian passing with his blanket tucked 
snugly around him, the weather being chilly, and with no covering 
on his head, Mrs. Atteridge bethought her of an old hat belonging to 
her husband, and taking it in her hand, hurried after the lone Indian 
along the Green Bay Trail. He took it from her and really seemed 
grateful for it, put it on his head and resumed his dogged trot, while 
Mrs. Atteridge hastened to the shelter of her snug home. After some 
little time had elapsed, the door of the cabin opened, and in walked 
the Indian, and without sign or gesture, laid the hat at her feet. He 
had evidently given it a trial and it had been found wanting, at least 
in his Indian intelligence. 

Mrs. Atteridge also used to love to tell of the French Canadians, 
who from time to time would enter the cabin and seek permission to 
cook by her fire. Of course, the hospitality of the wilderness demanded 
that this favor should be granted and our early settlers became accus- 
tomed to these demands. The French Canadians of whom Mrs. Atter- 
idge tells, were in all probability hunters and traders, leading a more 
or less adventurous life, keeping in the neighborhood of the streams 
principally, but frequently portaging quite long distances over the 
well-known trails. But all these legends add to the interest of the 
vicinity, and it is a pity that so much of this has escaped us, simply 
because we have been so energetic in our trend toward everything 
that is commercial. 

This Atteridge farm is on a very historical site. Miss Atteridge 
has a wonderful collection of Indian relics found during the first early 
ploughings, and she treasures them with the right kind of sentiment. 
Her mother's spinning wheel, brought from Ireland together with her 
reel and butter print, and an old violin belonging to her father are 
among the heirlooms of this family, who at one period owned most 
of that which is designated Lake Forest. Other descendants of this 
pioneer family are living in the vicinity and the third generation is 
in attendance at the Lake Forest College. 

Lake Forest is wonderfully favored by nature, and it was fortunate 
that its early projectors, grasping the possibilities of this favored site, 
sought to add to, rather than detract from its magnificence. It is 
located on a bluff varying from seventy-five to one hundred feet above 
Lake Michigan, with a delightful stretch of sandy beach forming the 
boundary of the waters. This bluff is a dream, so tender and artistic 
has been the care bestowed upon it. It trends inward and outward 
in corrugated sections, and here the landscapist has draped with the 



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Page forty-six 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

loveliest collection of tree and shrub growth, much of it indigenous, 
a number of small trails or by-ways leading to the water. It is all 
so natural that one feels as if no hand ever directed those downward 
trending, shaded by-ways which are a part of the magnificent park 
on the plateau above, for Lake Forest has preserved much of its lake 
front as a public pleasure ground. 

Intercepted by curving ravines, the streets take their way accord- 
ingly by the aid of bridges, and the whole of the city is as far as the 
boundary of the electric road and the Chicago and North-Western 
Railroad, as one big domain of curving highways and byways shaded 
by the richest of tree growth. Very few of the fine homes are visible 
from the street, as the grounds adjoining each are undulating parks. 
Gardens are brought into subtle view through the most charming 
vistas of lordly tree growth. The landscape architect who conceived 
this exquisite method of designing a city was a Mr. Hotchkiss of 
St. Louis. 

Lake Forest is a college center and as such it was devised. If 
environment has, as we believe, anything to do with the moulding of 
character, what ought we to expect of those who are privileged to 
attend college under conditions which tend to develop all that is 
best in young manhood and young womanhood. It is little wonder 
that Alma Mater at Lake Forest draws the student body into closer 
affiliation with the true spirit of brotherhood, and that her sons and 
daughters seek, through their active alumni associations, to make the 
annual gatherings suggestive of the coming together of one family. 

In February, 1856, the Lake Forest Association came into being. 
It was conceived by those who desired to establish an educational 
institution within a country environment ; remote from Chicago, but 
at the same time near enough to the latter to derive metropolitan 
advantages. Thirteen hundred acres were purchased by this organiza- 
tion. Half of this acreage was set apart as Association property, and 
Lake Forest was platted and recorded in 1857, each alternate lot 
being assigned as a university endowment, sixty-two acres set apart 
as an inalienable campus. 

In 1 86 1 Lake Forest was incorporated as a city, and by an Act 
of the Legislature in 1865, the title of the Lind University under 
which the charter was granted to the proposed institution when first 
under contemplation, was changed to that of the Lake Forest Univer- 
sity. The first steps toward establishing a preparatory school for boys 
was in the fall of 1858, when the Lake Forest Academy came into 
being. In 1869 a similar school was established for girls by means of 
a thirty-five thousand dollar legacy from the Rev. William Montague 
Ferry of Grand Haven, Michigan, and Ferry Hall was born. 

In 1870 the Lake Forest Hotel and Manufacturing Company pur- 
chased three hundred acres of the endowment lands, and on the 
shores of the Lake, erected a very fine hotel six stories in height and 
thoroughly equipped. For five years the company conducted this 
hostelry at a loss, and in order to cancel its indebtedness it turned 
over the hotel and its twelve acres of park to the University. A 
commodious and convenient building was now in the hands of the 



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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

trustees, and a college was organized. The Rev. Robert W. Patter- 
son, D.D., of the Second Presbyterian Church, Chicago, came to the 
college as its first president, serving in that capacity until 1878. 

Until September, 1876, there was no collegiate institute of high 
grade, not under State control, where a woman might receive the 
same educational facilities as those offered to men, and on the date 
named, eight young men and four young women entered Lake Forest 
College, as pioneers in the system of co-education. In 1887 the 
college building was destroyed by fire. One hundred thousand dollars 
was quickly raised for a new building, and in 1878 the Rev. Daniel 
S. Gregory, D.D., of Wooster University, came to the presidency. 

The building now known as College Hall was erected in 1878, 
chapel, library, recitation rooms and dormitories being under one roof. 
The Academy building was destroyed by fire in 1879, but the same 
year a new Academy, and three other structures, were erected. 

Most of the present College buildings are monuments to the kindly 
benefactions of Lake Forest's distinguished citizens. These structures 
not only add extension to college facilities but the artistic atmosphere 
is enhanced by the well selected plans of exterior and interior. The 
Durand Institute, the Lois Durand Hall, the Calvin Durand Commons, 
the Alice Home, are all associated with the beneficence of one family; 
and the same might be said of the charming group of buildings known 
as Reid Hall, the Lily Reid Memorial Chapel, and the Reid Library 
and Cloister, the Blackstone Hall and the Blackstone dormitories and 
the Harlan Hall, while Mr. Andrew Carnegie (not a resident) but 
of public library fame, donated a Science Hall. 

In short, Lake Forest College shows a group of finely equipped 
structures, designed for the work of its students, collectively as well 
as individually, while its faculty, under the aggressive and progressive 
spirit of President Scholte Nollen, are pushing toward efficiency in 
the several departments of learning and study, with the result that 
the past year is characterized by the largest enrollment of students 
in the history of the College. Of the eighteen members composing 
the body of trustees, twelve are residents of Lake Forest, four of 
Chicago, one of Evanston and one of Milwaukee. Mr. John V. Farwell 
is president of the official board, while the name of Mr. Cyrus H. 
McCormick appears on the roll of most of the active committees. 

A unique feature of the College student life is found in the fact 
that both men and women are housed and fed upon the campus, the 
men rooming in four dormitories with every modern convenience for 
their well-being, taking their meals at the Calvin Durand Commons, 
while the women students live in the beautiful Lois Durand Hall, 
its accommodation providing for sixty-two in a home that is ideal in 
every respect. 

Lake Forest, with its blessed out-of-doors significance, with a 
water supply of the purest, with a sewage system of the best, with 
streets kept in condition by a top dressing that precludes any possi- 
bility of inconvenience from dust, with neither smoke of factory nor 
other undesirable structures at hand, presents many advantages to 
college students seeking an environment conducive to health and the 
best educational facilities. Its college campus is an inspiration. 



Page forty-nine 




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There, while the last century was in budding promise for American 
progressiveness in empire-building, the Pottawattomies, one of the 
most aggressive as well as intelligent of the Indian tribes, trod the 
trails with softly-moccasined feet, in pursuit of the gentle and graceful 
creature of the forest, which abounded in this vicinity. 

Today, glad voices mingle in enthusiasm as the modern sports, 
football, basketball, baseball and track exercises occupy their respect- 
ive places of merit as a pastime amid much of the original forest 
environment, for Lake Forest has zealously guarded its native tree 
growth. 

One of its leading thoroughfares preserves in its title its former 
significance. Deerpath Avenue was an old hunting trail, while the 
Deerpath Inn occupies the former site of a hunter's cabin. Before 
its evolution into the present, neat, well-equipped hostelry, however, 
it was one of the early homesteads of Lake Forest, having been built 
by the late Colonel Johnson and occupied by him and his family for 
many years. Nestled in its beautiful tree growth, the Deerpath Inn, 
which is just east of the charmingly arranged depot of the Chicago 
and Milwaukee Electric Railroad, presents an attractive feature as 
one enters Lake Forest at this particular point. All business structures 
are west of the railroad, the east side being devoted to residence and 
college purposes. 

The Onwentsia Club of Lake Forest has long been associated with 
equine sports as well as with that of golf. Its annual horse shows 
are a feature of entertainment eagerly sought and thoroughly well 
appreciated by North Shore residents who have not lost all interest 
in that which constitutes breeding and style in this noble animal as 
well as good equestrianship and easy and graceful driving, on the 
part of both men and women. 

Should Lake Forest develop its shore line as is anticipated, it will 
become one of the most perfect centers for aquatic sports, as well as 
the most artistically finished line of shore on either of the Great 
Inland Lakes. Mrs. Harold F. McCormick has given this subject 
much thought and has had the project put into practical form by 
engineers who are authorities on the subject by issuing an illustrated 
booklet in which are given estimates of the proposed work of con- 
struction, each part of the work being itemized in separate expense. 
The idea is to have lagoons for sports, to establish a yacht harbor 
opposite the public park whose dimensions shall accommodate the 
largest steam yachts, as well as the smaller craft sailing the waters 
of Lake Michigan, and afford a refuge for yachts coasting the shore 
line or running long racing distances on the Lake. The project is a 
feasible one, and the motive of its originator calls for appreciation. 
Lake Michigan, as we know, is anything but encouraging to aquatic 
sports. There are no adequate shelter places for such outside the 
city limits of Chicago. A properly equipped water front would add 
to the many advantages already possessed by this queen city of the 
North Shore. 



Page fifty-one 




Page fifty-two 




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Charles S. Frost, Architect 



NEW PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH 
Highland Park, 111. 



HIGHLAND PARK— THE NORTH SHORE 
PIONEER OF COUNTRY SEATS 

"The fathers — the men who thought 
Of all the future held, 
And, hearts uplifted, essayed and wrought 
All the work their dreams compelled." 

FOLLOWING Sheridan Road, after it passes the lovely home of 
Mr. Frederick Morgan Steele, and the dear old homestead of 
the Turnley family, in Highland Park, the highway curves 
northward in close proximity to the Lake, until reaching the southern 
boundary of Fort Sheridan Government Reservation, it trends west- 
ward and entering the latter, again proceeds northward. During this 
time the tourist has been covering a site of traditional import in 
connection with the early beginnings of this beautiful home city. 
Apart from the fact that all this territory, as well as that lying south- 
ward, is of Indian legendary significance, its evolution into the city 
of today, possesses tradition and legend of equal interest. 

Just within the enclosure of the reservation is the site of one of 
the earliest, ambitious undertakings on this portion of the North Shore. 
In 1845 a sawmill and a warehouse were erected, while a pier of con- 
siderable length reached like a long arm out into the lake. The site 
was known as St. Johns, and for a period it received quite a boom, 
for many settlers found their way here, and home-building began in 
earnest. But the title to the land became involved in litigation and 
the enterprise was finally abandoned, while the town plat was declared 
void. This small beginning was but the prelude to the other singing 
activities that were to soon begin on its southern border, and which 



Page fifty-three 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 




THE OLD PORT CLINTON LIGHTHOUSE 



were destined to evolve themselves into that grand orchestration of 
Nature, among the harmonies of which "Home, Sweet Home!" 
became the leading theme toward a City Beautiful. 

Port Clinton, as this second venture toward a town was known, 
had its site also on the Lake shore, while its promoters cherished the 
ambition that it would be not only a rival of Little Fort, but possibly 
of both Milwaukee and Chicago. Ambitions ran at fever heat in those 
days, for everything was couleur de rose to those who came and dared. 
This second town made a most promising start in 1850. A steam 
sawmill was doing a thriving business, and from its pier, even of more 
extensive proportions than its predecessor, were shipped large quan- 
tities of wood and lumber. 

Tradition says that 200,000 feet of oak plank was shipped in one 
year from this pier to Chicago for the building of plank roads. Large 
quantities of wood for fuel, together with wagon materials, and " ships 
knees" were also loaded into the white-winged vessels that had now 
begun to skim the waters of the Lake in the interests of commerce. 
In the manufacture of "ships knees" Port Clinton became a close 
rival of Little Fort, both places shipping to New York and Baltimore. 

Westward from the lake the farmers had begun to grow grain, 
and the warehouse at Port Clinton held this in storage while awaiting 
shipment. The United States Government had established and main- 
tained a lighthouse here, and soon a brickyard was started, the father 
of the late Washington Hesing, one of Chicago's mayors, being the 
projector of the same. A postoffice was established in 1850, and a 



Page fifty-four 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 




Photo by Benin 



HOME OF MR. FRANK P. HAWKINS 

Highland Park, 111. 
(The third house built on the east side) 



wagon express. It is said that the postmaster slept with the mail bag 
under his bed, and his gun under his pillow. 

Just at the eastern termination of the lovely Ravine Drive in 
Highland Park another little community budded into life and did 
considerable business in the shipping of wood and lumber from a 
point of vantage known as " Stowell's Pier." In 1854 cholera found 
its victims in both of these little bustling, thriving lumber sites, and 
the first to succumb to its dire effects was Andrew Steele, who had 
been the leading spirit in the Port Clinton project, and was its most 
prominent merchant. His wife died the same day, while others in the 
vicinity, as well as throughout the county, succumbed to the same 
epidemic. But for these unforeseen circumstances Port Clinton might 
have developed into a lumber region, and the forest growth, that is 
now such a marvel of beauty in Highland Park, have degenerated into 
unsightly stumps. 

After the Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad had established a 
station, effort was made by the Port Clinton Land Company to build 
a town in its vicinity. The present hotel, west of the depot, is a 
pioneer structure of that day and was then known as the "Central." 
This particular site was platted in 1855, and among the stockholders 
of the company appear the names of most of the substantial business 
men of that time, all residents of Chicago. One of these, Mr. Walter 



Page fifty-five 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



S. Gurnee, ultimately purchased all the stock of the company, and 
became the owner of its property. 

In 1867 a special charter was granted to the Highland Park 
Building Company by Act of the General Assembly, and a corporation 
embodying the above title was then organized, and Mr. Gurnee sold 
the entire property of the Port Clinton Land Company to the Highland 
Park Building Company. The stockholders of the latter were mostly 
citizens of Chicago, and, Mr. Frank P. Hawkins was appointed its 
general agent and manager. In 1869 Highland Park was incor- 
porated as a city and Mr. Hawkins became its first mayor. He still 
lives in one of the first three homes erected east of the railroad in 
that city, and is the pioneer builder of the first ten residences erected 
between Highland Park and Glencoe. 




Courtesy Bahr, Bowen Co., Landscape Engineers 

WAVERLY AVENUE BRIDGE 
Reinforced Concrete, Designed by H. L. Bowen 

The Port Clinton lighthouse, having served its purpose, was 
abandoned, but stood as an old landmark, picturesque yet pathetic 
in its ruined and unkempt condition until about ten years ago, when 
it was destroyed. But its tradition remains, and the writer of this 
present work, has been fortunate enough to gather a few of the inter- 
esting legends associated with it. The lighthouse projected some 
distance from the present bluff where Sheridan Road, after trending 
eastward, curves to the north, giving a broad, expansive view of the 
lake. On the bluff itself was a fine orchard and garden for the keeper 
of the lighthouse and his family. Its first and only keeper was Owen 
Monaghan. The bit of parchment containing his appointment is one 
of the precious heirlooms of a daughter, born in the lighthouse, and 
her children. It was a proud day when the Port Clinton mail brought 
the following: 



Page -fifty-six 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

"Treasury Department, Washington, D. C, July 1st, 1856. 

"Sir, you are appointed Keeper of the Lighthouse at Port Clinton, Illinois, at 
a salary of Three Hundred and Fifty Dollars per ann." 

(Signed) James Gu — (the rest of signature undecipherable) 

Secretary. 
To Owen Monaghan. 

Deer abounded in the neighboring forest, and the lighthouse keeper 
shot many a one on the edge of the bluff. Wolves were not altogether 
strangers at this period and in this vicinity the children's "bogey" 
was "Hush! the wolf will hear you cry!" 

On the site now occupied by a charming home in the Spanish 
mission style of architecture, and bearing the pretty Spanish designa- 
tion of " Miralago, " meaning "Behold the Lake!" the view of its 
waters from this point being superbly grand, originally stood the 
homestead of the Monaghan family. On the edge of a small ravine 
that picturesquely cuts through a portion of the lawn, is seen a 
magnificent specimen of weeping willow. When the wife of the light- 
house keeper was a young woman she planted a sprig of willow — 
never dreaming it would grow — which had been brought to her by a 
Catholic priest from the grave of the Great Napoleon. In its alien 
environment it grew and flourished, until now it has become a land- 
mark of wonderful grace and beauty. 

A little distance westward, and in a home, the center of which 
was built for a schoolhouse by the Port Clinton Company and which 
was also used for religious purposes, resides Mrs. Mary Josephine Cox, 
a married daughter of Sarah and Owen Monaghan. Mrs. Cox was 
born in the lighthouse. She has this remembrance of the wreck of 
the Lady Elgin: A body of a well-dressed woman having on a hoop 
skirt and wearing a long gold chain attached to a watch, being washed 
ashore in the vicinity of the lighthouse and the identity being estab- 
lished some long time after the remains had been laid to rest. The 
little red brick schoolhouse which followed the pioneer structure of 
frame, is still a feature of this neighborhood, being used as a boy's 
club. In early days, it, too, was used for religious services. 

The site of the Moraine Hotel is also included in this old Port 
Clinton venture. The following legend is associated with the ravine 
that gashes this property, in a horseshoe curve formation. During 
the time of the construction of the Illinois and Michigan canal, in 
1855, a band of counterfeiters were unearthed here. Everything of 
their outfit, with the exception of the counterfeit plates, was dis- 
covered and two of the men were captured, tried and committed. 
The third, who was the maker of the plates, could not be found. 

Twenty years afterward Judge H. W. Blodgett in driving home 
to Waukegan from Chicago, when in the neighborhood of Deerfield, 
overtook an old man toiling along by the wayside. The Judge proffered 
him a seat in his vehicle, and the man became chatty and appeared 
to know the Judge, although his name had no significance to the latter. 
Before Judge Blodgett set the man down at his destination he had 
promised to accept at some future time an invitation to call at the 
home of his companion, who intimated he had a "great curiosity" 



Page fifty-seven 




k - 



Page fifty-eight 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

that might "interest" him. A day came when the Judge recalled his 
promise, and having time on hand, went to see the old man. He 
recalled to the mind of the eminent jurist the trial of the counter- 
feiters, in which he, the Judge, then a young, bright attorney, had 
a part. Then inviting him to an inner room, in which was a bed, 
the host turned up one of the mattresses and disclosed to view the 
engraved plates used in the making of the counterfeit bonds! 

"The statute of limitation has expired, Judge," said the old man 
grimly, "or I would not have dared to show you these, but they are 
my work. I have never left the county; have had the plates all the 
time in my possession, and never even changed my name. You 
lawyers are not so smart, after all!" The Judge acknowledged it 
with a laugh. He knew, as the counterfeiter had intimated, the case 
was outlawed. 

As in the traditions of other cities along the North Shore the little 
dun-colored structures had dotted the landscape in Highland Park, 
even before the platting of the site of St. Johns. Legends of the 
log cabin period should be cherished, for, after all, is it not the man 
who blazed the trail, he who came to the wilderness with a " faith 
all glorious" to make a home for himself and those dear to him, of 
whom the American poet that is yet to arrive, shall sing? Yes, our 
Homer will come, for the Iliad of this Middle West has yet to be 
written. So let us never forget that "we only hold the comfort 
within and the peace without by grace of the men of old." 

About seventy-seven years ago, a family started in an ox-team 
from Erie, Pennsylvania, to make a home in the new country north 
of Chicago, now within the township of Deerfield, and in a straight 
line on Central Avenue west of the Green Bay Road. The little daughter, 
now a woman of eighty-six years, still hale and hearty, was held in 
the arms of her mother for safety as they passed over the corduroy 
roads. This family settled on one hundred acres of land, where a log 
cabin was built, and, as in most of these pioneer homes of like struc- 
ture, it was provided with two doors immediately opposite each other. 
There was reason for this architectural design. 

Wood was the only fuel, and huge logs were used to retain the 
heat. When the logs were ready a yoke of oxen would be stationed 
outside the open door opposite the other open door through which 
the log was to be brought. A chain was fastened to the yoke of 
oxen and the end trailed across the floor and attached to the log, 
which had first been drawn into position near the other door. The 
oxen were now urged into action and the log would be drawn to a 
place where it might easily be rolled to the hearth. 

The child in question grew to young womanhood, and, in the 
meantime, her brother had become acquainted with a young man 
about his own age, in Chicago, who had also come from the east to 
look for opportunity for investment. This young man had been offered 
four blocks of land in the vicinity of Chicago Avenue for eight hundred 
dollars! Before coming to any decision he went with his friend to 
their country home in Deerfield. Here he found he could get eighty 
acres for eight hundred dollars. Perhaps the bright and interesting 
sister of his friend had something to do with his decision in favor of 



Page fifty-nine 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



the farm. Be this as it may, it was a ease of love at first sight, and 
in due course Philip Brand married and settled down to his future 
responsibilities in a home built of logs. 

To this couple were born eight children — five sons and three 
daughters. Of this family, four sons and two daughters survive, all 
of whom are still living in the township of Deerfield, some of them 
long time citizens of Highland Park. Soon after her marriage, 
Mrs. Brand, in the preparation of breakfast reached for the coffee, 
which was in a small cupboard built against the wall. She felt a sharp 
sensation of pain in one of her fingers, and quickly withdrawing her hand, 
in a frightened voice told her husband she had been bitten by a mouse. 

The young husband looked at the wound but said nothing. He 
took a lighted tallow dip and investigated the cupboard. There, 
coiled on a plate, lay a rattlesnake. After disposing of the same he 
ran to the nearby neighbors and told them what had happened. They 
went to his wife, while he — for no one had a horse — ran for a doctor, 
the nearest being stationed at Dutchman's Point, some twelve miles 
distant ! 

The early settlers were more or less familiar with a kind of " first 
aid" remedy and they administered to the needs of the young wife, 
binding the arm tightly from wrist to shoulder, and it was the " blood- 
letting" period of the medical fraternity! However, Mrs. Brand suf- 
fered no material injury. She still bears the scar, a memento of those 
early, anxious days. This story is related to illustrate one of the many 
dangers to which the log cabin dwellers were subjected. The women 
required brave hearts and nerves of steel. And in these qualifications 
the pioneer mothers of the North Shore were not found wanting. 

In 1872-3, the southern half of the city of Highland Park was put 
into the hands of Cleveland and French, landscape architects, to plan 
toward an evolution of highways and byways that should be artistic 
as well as practicable, for the promoters of the project had long since 
resolved that the city should be devoted to the fostering of country 
homes. For assurance that the projectors and landscape architects 
succeeded in their individual parts, it is only necessary to take just 
a glimpse at the Highland Park of today. The French, named in this 
partnership is no less a personage than W. M. R. French, whose name 
figures large in the evolution of the Art Institute of Chicago, and 
who for many years has been its able director. Mr. French had grad- 
uated from Harvard in 1864, practicing civil engineering and land- 
scape gardening for seven years before he, as a member of the firm 
named, sought to untangle the forest-bound and ravine-gashed site 
of Highland Park. The highways, no matter how much they trend 
in waving beauty toward and over the wooded ravines which are 
bridged, find their final outlet to one main leading street bounded 
by the railroad. 

Highland Park has always been a city of good roads. The writer 
recalls these roads some twenty-five years ago. They were a delight 
in driving, even then. Today they are simply magnificent. The 
beautiful spirit manifested by this burgh in their careful thought of 
the stranger within their gates — each street being clearly defined by 
name which is printed on neat guide posts at street intersections — is 



Page sixty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

only equalled by their generous home hospitality. To visit Highland 
Park is to be brought within an atmosphere of old-time hospitality, 
coupled with a modern up-to-dateness that is simply enchanting. It 
is the blending of the true and the beautiful in life, this rare combina- 
tion of refining influences that has ever made Highland Park a desirable 
home city. 

In entering Highland Park, the Sheridan Road takes its way 
through Ravinia on its southern border, in close proximity to the 
Lake, where one may still find superb acreages for those desiring the 
water front. Just east of the magnificent Ravinia Park, and at this 
outlet's intersection with the Sheridan Road, is a tableland of some- 
thing less than twenty acres, rising eighty feet above the Lake, and 
belted with timber. The bluffs at this particular point have assumed 
corrugations that suggest sculptor's chisel. On the plateau above 
and within shelter of the timber, once stood a log cabin — the home 
of the settler who cleared and farmed the land in the long ago. Except 
the clearing there is nothing to suggest the home, that once com- 
manded an expansive view of the Lake. But a pathetic little legend 
is associated with the spot. There was a well dug here and excellent 
water obtained, but the two young children of the tiller of the soil, 
met their death by falling into the well. This fair acreage, lifting in 
lovely contour from the Lake, with all its woodland sweetness and 
charm, awaits the coming of the builder of a country seat, for this 
is its destiny. (Illustrations page 62.) 

Highland Park, as most of the North Shore communities, found 
its most prosperous development in home-building, east of the rail- 
road and in the immediate vicinity of the Lake. And like all these 
communities, too, it has but recently awakened to the fact, that west 
of this boundary line, and at an altitude of from one hundred and 
thirty to one hundred and fifty feet above the Lake, lies a most fair 
land of promise, and whether she recognizes it, the fact remains, that 
Highland Park between the county line and, perhaps, a little to the 
north of the Exmoor Golf Grounds on the Green Bay Road, has the 
richest and finest bit of the Skokie Valley of any other city in its 
historic vicinity. The writer, who has known this section, and who 
has tramped over it, from Evanston to and including Lake Forest, for 
years, knows whereof she writes. " Upland, Vale and Grove, Seen 
from a Highway of Historic Import," was the thought born of this 
inspiration from the Green Bay Road and the beautiful Valley of the 
Skokie, seen in the vicinity of Highland Park. 

"Skokie?" The Indian for "marsh," says one; "bad squaw," in 
the same language, says another. But have you seen the Skokie after 
a dry Summer and Fall? If you have you will know that the Indian 
named it rightly when he gave to it the designation of " Waub-Skokie, " 
meaning "land fire." Its wonderful peat beds have almost been 
consumed since the Indian so designated it. Observing its red, steady 
glow creeping sinuously over the earth, and upland and grove bathed 
in ruddy phantasmagoria, he was awed into reverent mood, and 
among all his gods, that of "Waub-Skokie, " the "land-fire" manitou, 
became associated with a mysticism which he could not probe. 

At an early period of the settlement of Lake County log cabins 



Page sixty-one 




THE BLUFFS EAST OF RAVINIA PARK 




PLATEAU ON BLUFFS EAST OF RAVINIA PARK 



Page sixty-two 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS— PAST AND PRESENT 

were dotted here and yon along the Green Bay Road in the vicinity 
in question. These gradually gave place to structures of frame and 
of brick, the present Stipe homestead being the pioneer in the latter 
material. A Catholic Mission church, "St. Mary's in the Woods," 
was here ki 1846, intimating there were settlers in that vicinity of 
the faith represented. And how far they traveled, the majority of 
the members of this congregation, in order to attend mass and receive 
that spiritual comfort from which their sojourn in the wilderness had 
seemed to deprive them ! This little log church was not in any way 
associated with Marquette's missions, as has been erroneously taught 
and accepted. Neither Marquette nor his immediate followers were 
in this neighborhood. He was a missionary of the Jesuit Order, and 
it was the same religious Order that promulgated the setting up of 
the little log church by the side of the old Indian trail — converted 
into a military road in 1835 — an d the same Order that devised its 
second use as a schoolhouse during the week day. This can only be 
the chain of circumstances connecting it with the name of the good 
Father Marquette. 

Today, a country home occupies the site of the burial ground that 
was attached to the little log mission church, while the immediate 
site of the latter is in the southeast corner of the charming lawn and 
garden fronting the old-time trail. How quickly historic landmarks 
disappear! And who would recognize this particular vicinity, not 
having seen it in many years? The old is little blended with the new, 
for the finely cultivated farmlands, and the extensive stock farms 
have disappeared. While the highway itself is macadamed and has 
a top dressing which precludes dust, and along its smooth surface 
speed the automobiles, where but yesterday wearily plodded the 
ox-cart. 

This is a vicinity of large acreages — the ideal site for country 
seats — and here they are coming as fast as appreciation of the locality 
is accepted. From off the old trail, trend eastward the most charmingly 
macadamed, curving highways. The lay of the land is undulating and 
crested with tree growth of more or less interest, while adown the 
highways trending westward are glimpses of the valley beyond. The 
little red schoolhouse that stood on the hill, and which became a 
landmark at the corner of Roger Williams Avenue on the Green Bay 
Road, has passed away. It is superseded by a noble structure on the 
corner of Lincoln Avenue, in the midst of delightful parkways, and 
commanding a view of the charming valley. 

Near the county line the tourist is confronted by suggestions of 
yesterday, in the form of farmhouses. The west entrance to Ravinia 
Park is at this point. Yonder, overlooking the valley, is a frame 
house which superseded the log cabin of one of the early settlers. 
Four generations of the same family have trodden these byways of the 
past and are now far afield in every other occupation but farming. 
The representative of the second generation is a hail and hearty man. 
He attended school in "St. Mary's in the Woods;" he also recalls 
memories of the soldiers passing over the Green Bay Road while on 
their way to or from Green Bay, Wisconsin, and Chicago. Mr. Hesler 
has kept pace with the times. He has not given any attention to 



Page sixty-three 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



farming for years. His winters are spent in California or some other 
congenial elime, while he returns to the "old farm" in summer as a 
matter of sentiment, and here come his bonnie grandchildren from 
some distant part of the state to spend their vacation, to climb the 
trees which their great-grandfather planted, and slide from the roofs 
of the unused buildings which "grandpa" erected in the long ago. 

The women of Highland Park, organized into various clubs, are 
very active in all that makes for a city healthful and beautiful. The 
public park on the Lake front, is left in as natural a state as possible, 
and on the broad sandy beach at the foot of the bluff on Central 
Avenue, is a children's playground, equipped with every gymnastic 
and aquatic device for the pleasure of the young folks. On a hot 
day this summer the writer was amused for the best part of an hour 
watching the youngsters launching a raft, the water part of the play- 
ground being bounded eastward by a net-guard, to prevent the too 
adventurous spirits from effectively playing "Columbus" or "Robin- 
son Crusoe. " 

The Exmoor Country Club is located in the picturesque Valley of 
the Skokie. No more ideal environment can be conceived for a golf 
course, with its lovely emerald-hued uplands and woodlands holding 
within their tremulous distances an atmosphere that is invigorating 
and inspiring. Schools and churches and a public library, aids to a 
city set apart as Highland Park is, for all that is best in home-building, 
impress the visitor with the fact that guardian spirits are watching 
over the welfare of this lovely North Shore city. 




ROGER WILLIAMS AVENUE, RAVINIA, ILL. 



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THE ORGAN AND STAIRCASE AT "RIDGEWOOD' 
(Built by owner) 
Green Bay Road, Highland Park, 111. 
From a Pencil Drawing by Miss I. M. Kimball 



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HOME OF MR. R. J. BEATTY 
5 55 South Sheridan Road Highland Park, 111. 




Page hundred and two 



"BRENTWOOD" 

Home of Miss Grace Glidden 

Highland Park. 111. 




Photo by Bemin 



HOME OF MR. WALTER WARDROP 
815 Lincoln Avenue. Highland Park, 111. 




Photo by Ben 



HOME OF MR. ROBERT SEYFARTH 

South Sheridan Road, Highland Park. 111. 



Page hundred and three 




Photo by Benmi 



HOME OF MRS. MAUD HOLBROOK SHANNON 
116 Moraine Road, Highland Park, 111. 




"BOSCOBEL" 

HOME OF THE MISSES IRWIN AND MRS. H. R. RITCHIE 

222 Maple Avenue, Highland Park, 111. 



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HOME OF MR. FRITZ BAHR 
Laurel Avenue, Highland Park, 111. 




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"TIMBERTOP" 

HOME OF MR. GEORGE C. EBELING 

Ravinia, 111. 



Page hundred and seven 




HOME OF MR. BURT J. FITZGERALD 
868 Lincoln Avenue, Highland Park, 111. 




Patton & Miller, Architects 



THE NEW UNION CHURCH 
Glencoe, 111. 



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HOME OF MR. C. P. WHITNEY 
1637 Judson Avenue, Evanston, 111. 




HOME OF MR. FRED KAEMPFER 
7400 North Ashland Avenue, Birchwood, Chicago 



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HALL, HOME OF MR. E. D. MOENG 
io5 4_Columbia Avenue, Rogers Park, Chicago 



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HOME OF MR. ROBERT S. SMITH 
Cumnor Road, Kenilworth, 111. 

THE HIGHWAY SOUTHWARD TO CHICAGO 

When the city's rush is over, and the monthly ticket shown, 
And the platform's crowd has scattered like leaves in Autumn blown, 
Then the engine feels the throttle, as the racer feels the whip, 
And sends its drivers whirling for its little homeward trip. 

Horace Spencer Fiske 

IN the vicinity of the pretty little station of Braeside, Chicago & 
North Western Railroad, or at the nearby county line station 
of the Chicago & Milwaukee Electric Railroad, and on the Cook 
County side, is seen a venerable tree of quaint and almost forlorn 
aspect. It is an Indian trail tree. A farmer, who has been a long- 
time resident on the Green Bay Road, is fond of declaring that this 
is "no trail tree." In short he ignores all tradition associated with 
the Indian. He asserts that within his remembrance, 1866, a tornado 
"twisted" this particular tree. With all due respect to his observa- 
tion of the "tornado's" havoc, those who are authorities on the sub- 
ject, having made a study in the timbered regions frequented by 
the Indian, know for certain that this was an Indian trail tree long 
before the "tornado" undertook to rend one of its limbs. The 
members of the Lake Shore Country Club have shown a praiseworthy 
sentiment, as well as a keen appreciation of an old historic land- 
mark, by affording it the protection of a neat fence against the 
vandalism that walketh abroad to destroy. 



Page hundred and thirty-five 




INDIAN TRAIL TREE 
COUNTY LINE ROAD AND LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB 



Page hundred and thirty-six 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

That the tree in question was in its sapling period bent by the 
Indian, in order to designate a particular route, there is no doubt. 
The early hunters appreciated the significance of such landmarks; 
the settlers coming later, and at a period when the Indian was leaving 
the territory, also realized that they were as signposts by the way. 
The settler himself blazed a trail, either by cutting down timber or 
by hacking off portions of the bark, and the North Shore is rife with 
legends of this nature, most wonderful stories being told of how 
"mother's father blazed the trees while walking toward Chicago," 
or "to Waukegan." As a rule, the trails of the Indian, particularly 
when marked by these peculiar trees, proved guide sufficient for the 
early settlers. 

Cook County was named as a compliment to the Hon. Daniel P. 
Cook, member of Congress, and Glencoe, which forms the county's 
northern line on the North Shore, was originated by the same Walter 
S. Gurnee whose name figures in the merging of Port Clinton into 
Highland Park. Mr. Gurnee was impressed by the glen-like aspect 
of the vicinity, and then gallantly added his wife's maiden name 
of Coe. Glencoe for many years nestled itself within such rich wood- 
land environment as to forbid an attempt at acquaintance. It is 
now a suburb of distinction, having many beautiful homes, some 
good business houses and a bank, and its citizens have just erected 
a magnificent Union Church, costing forty thousand dollars. 

The Green Bay Road in this vicinity trends eastward, being inter- 
sected by the railroad, then diverging northward, it is a beautifully 
paved highway, paralleling the tracks for some distance when it again 
turns westward and northward. Melville E. Stone of Daily News 
and Associated Press fame, built the first pretentious home in Glencoe, 
bridging a ravine on Sheridan Road before the necessary material 
could be brought to the selected site. Sheridan Road at this time 
was little more than a wagon trail, and impassable at certain seasons 
of the year. The Lake Shore Country Club and the Skokie Country 
Club are both within the corporate limits of Glencoe. Street improve- 
ments in the southern part of the village are being rapidly pushed 
as are those in the adjoining suburb, Hubbard Woods. 

This latter place was originally known as Taylorsport, after the 
Taylor family, its earliest settlers. In 1870 David Gage of Chicago, 
named it Lakeside, because of its proximity to the Lake. It is only 
recently, however, since it has been designated Hubbard Woods, 
that this charming tract of land has received the attention it deserved. 
It is named after Gurdon S. Hubbard, who at one time, owned the 
whole acreage comprising this site. As the Sheridan Road takes its 
way in close proximity to the Lake, the slopes and curves present a 
panorama of wonderful views. There are some charming homes in 
this picturesque environment, and in the woodlands west of the rail 
road, a very unique home has just been completed. It is built of 
logs, but nothing about it to suggest the home of the early pioneer. 
It is a pretentious affair, and was built and is owned by Adam Emory 
Albright, who has become known as the painter of country children. 
This country home is constructed of Oregon pine logs, sixty feet long 
and ranging in diameter from twelve to fourteen inches. This unique 



Page hundred and thirty-seven 




I'iiolo by Bemm 



TRAIL TREE AT WILMETTE, ILL. 
Tenth and Greenwood Avenues 



Page hundred and thirty-eight 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

structure together with the artist's reputation, will surely bring fame 
to Hubbard Woods. It will be interesting to read the legends of 
the future in connection with the building of this home. How the 
logs were hauled on a train of six flat cars to be again transported 
by two teams of horses, two logs at a time, to the proposed site; the 
many problems encountered in obtaining workmen who could put 
the material together, for every log, as well as the oak window frames, 
is held in place by spikes half an inch square and ten inches long! 

Winnetka is an Indian word, signifying "beautiful place," and 
no one will dispute its right to the title. Here may be found many 
pretentious as well as artistic homes, charmingly environed in trees 
and shrubbery. It has winding thoroughfares, with little parks at 
street intersections. Its natural undulations are very pleasing, and 
its outlook to the Lake delightful. The maple growth is simply 
glorious, and in Autumn Winnetka's coloring rivals that of any other 
North Shore village or city. The Sheridan Road takes its way 
through the village one block west of the Lake. 

Kenilworth, within the past year, has shown considerable awaken- 
ing in the northern portion. Here quite a number of homes have 
come into being, and streets laid out and paved in keeping with the 
original plan of the site. From the " Book of the North Shore, — • 
1 910," is culled the following paragraph of interest regarding this 
particular vicinity: 

"About fifteen miles north of Chicago is Kenilworth, which has 
a marked individuality. Here was opportunity for landscape artist 
and architect to work in unison, and here, too, it being the youngest 
of the North Shore settlements, each could profit by the advantages 
or disadvantages of the planning and building of the earlier com- 
munities ; and to their credit, be it recorded, Kenilworth stands alone 
in having made the best of all that Nature bestowed. Even Evanston, 
as well as Highland Park and Rogers Park, have had to destroy in 
modern times that which was planned and builded in earlier times. 
Not so will it be with Kenilworth. The entrance to this lovely home 
town is beyond reproach; its large fountain and cemented angles of 
streets, together with its superb tree growth, suggest a park of some 
magnitude and beauty. No straggling line of one-story stores, no 
freaks of the builder of the "railroad" street offend the eye. The 
noble forest growth of oak, elm, ash and other native trees have been 
barely cleared to admit of residences being built, yet all is in order 
and arranged with artistic taste. The large trees are trimmed so as 
not to interfere, their tops forming a canopy of varied green in 
summer, while in winter they are etched against the sky line or cast- 
ing athwart the snow-covered lawns blue and purple traceries, such 
as no artist could hope to imitate with any degree of success. Noth- 
ing had stood in this wilderness of forest previous to its being platted 
as a desirable residence site, except the wigwam of the Indian and 
a solitary log cabin, which stood on the bluff, thirty-five feet above 
the lake, and in which Elizabeth Ouilmette was married to Michael 
Welch. Well paved avenues, over which much of the original forest 
growth throws its grateful shade and protection, make of Kenilworth 
a desirable home place." 



Page hundred and thirty-nine 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



Wilmette is a live, active village. During the past five years it 
has grown beyond comprehension; grown in beauty as well as in 
strength. It was always a favored site. Nature did much for it, 
and interest is shown in the preservation of its tree growth. There 
are many lordly elms, trees that prove by their girth that they were 
here while the Indian was in possession. There are a few trail trees 
cherished in this neighborhood, and whether on private property or 
on the boulevards, they are sacred to their particular environment. 
The Ouilmette Country Club, located on the edge of the public park 
fronting the Lake, forms one of the many social features associated 
with this village. The enterprise of the Woman's Club is evidenced 
in the beautiful club home erected by that organization, and which 
is said to be the first club house of its kind devoted to the special 
interests of a woman's organization built on the North Shore. Its 
Village Hall is a monument to its originators. Pure and chaste in 
design and finish it is unlike any other structure of its kind on the 
North Shore, and its ensemble is such, that one feels as if one of 
the temples of ancient Greece had been dropped into a more modern 
environment and fitted to its alien surroundings with advantage. 
Wilmette has much of traditional interest. It was named after the 
wife of Antoine Ouilmette, a Frenchman, who married Archange, a 
Pottawattomie maiden. Ouilmette was one of the first white settlers 
in Chicago occupying one of the four cabins that constituted the 
settlement of Chicago in 1803. There were born to the Ouilmettes 
eight children, the names of whom appear in the several affidavits, 
deeds and documents relating to the title to the reservation, upon 
the site of which the greater portion of Wilmette, as well as a part 
of Evanston, now stands. Ouilmette's marriage to Archange, the 
Pottawattomie, is historical, for it is said to be the first North Shore 
wedding of which there is any record. The wedding took place at 
Gross Point in 1796. Ouilmette's daughter, Elizabeth, was twice 
married. Her first husband was Michael Welch, who has the honor 
of being designated not only the "first Irishman" in Chicago, but 
the first of his nationality on the North Shore. His marriage with 
Elizabeth Ouilmette took place on May 11, 1830, and in a log cabin 
that stood until 1903 on the east side of Sheridan Road, two blocks 
north of the Kenilworth water tower. 

The North Shore channel of the Chicago Sanitary District has 
its entrance from Lake Michigan in Wilmette, where a harbor has 
been built and where the commissioners have created from the 
material taken from the ditch a site for a park on its north bank. 
At this point the Sheridan road will cross the channel over a hand- 
some concrete bridge, which is nearing completion. The water flows 
into the canal at the rate of one thousand cubic feet per second, 
which is of sufficient force to dilute all sewage that may be turned 
into it. Great possibilities for beautifying its banks through the 
suburban residence sections is evident, and will, in all probability, 
be considered seriously in some well organized association, such as 
our Park Boards. The right of way of the channel is six hundred 
feet in width; the canal is from twenty-six to thirty feet in width 
at bottom, with a one hundred and thirty feet width at top, and 
thirteen feet of depth, and the approximate cost is $2,500,000. 



Page hundred and forty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 



Reaching Rogers Park the northern limits of Chicago are des- 
ignated by the site of an old Indian trail. This thoroughfare was 
for years known as "Indian Boundary." Its title should never have 
been changed and the writer is glad to know that the Chicago His- 
torical Society has entered a protest to this effect on its records. 
"Indian Boundary" would always imply tradition; would signify 
that which as time passes one is apt to forget. The northern section 
of Rogers Park is designated "Birchwood." The whole suburb 
might rightfully have claimed this designation, so prolific were the 
birch trees here. 

The Edgewater Golf Club, which for years made a beauty spot 
of the southwest corner of Rogers Park, has its new grounds at the 
intersection of Pratt and Ridge Boulevards — the latter being laid 
over an old trail. The Birchwood Golf Club has its links adjoining 
the historic Indian Boundary. 

Quoting again from the "Book of the North Shore 1910." 

"Before streets were opened the byways leading to the Lake, par- 
ticularly east of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul tracks — Sheridan 
Road then being little more than a trail — the woodlands were rich 
in flower growth. The hepatica, the violet and a host of other sweet 
blossoms, together with a veritable riot of roses, made the months 
of May and June a delight in this particular section. The cucumber 
vine, with its delicate lace-like beauty, vied with woodbine, wild 
grape and bittersweet in gracefully draping each defect of shattered 
and fallen treegrowth. These same charming artists of the forest 
persisted in veiling the real estate signs, as if in protest at their 
intrusion. The stately elder with its broad umbels of cream-colored 
and white blossoms, followed by the rich purple and red fruit, imparted 
to the byways an ever- varying touch of form and hue. The great 
charm of the Rogers Park woodlands, however, was its silver birch 
growth, the "lady birch" as it is designated by some authorities. 
Tenderest touches of green splashed with yellow in the spring; their 
columns of silver imparting a striking note of beauty in the dense 
and shadowy byways of summer; while autumn changed their delicate 
foliage to veritable flakes of gold, and my Lady Birch then declared 
herself Queen of the Woodlands ! In the winter they assumed a rare 
individuality, standing like pillars of light in purpled shadows, and 
outvieing the snow-blanketed earth in their brilliancy. Oh! how 
radiant they appeared when caught in the slanting rays of a rose- 
colored sunset ! And when Old Sol arose from his bed on the eastern 
horizon of the Lake, how tenderly mysterious they became, quivering 
with something akin to the emotion of a messenger who has some- 
thing surprising to impart. You dear old birch trees! Why was 
speech denied you? Our distinguished New England poet immor- 
talized thee — 

"Give me of your bark, 
O Birch-Tree!" 

"Lay aside your cloak, O birch-tree! 
Lay aside your white-skin wrapper, 
For the summer-time is coming, 
And the sun is warm in heaven, 
And you need no white-skin wrapper!" 
Thus aloud cried Hiawatha. 

Page hundred and forty-one 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



"There were many 
' Hiawathas,' before the 
coming of the white man, 
in the birchwoods on the 
site of what is now called 
Rogers Park, busy build- 
ing canoes from the mate- 
rial at hand. In a few 
instances the birch tree 
has been coaxed to remain 
well cared for on private 
property. 

"The two Edge waters 
and Argyle Park as Rogers 
Park, form a part of the 
municipality of Chicago. 
Edgewater's founder was 
Mr. J. Lewis Cochran. 
He subdivided three 
hundred and fifty acres, 
putting in street im- 
provements and building 
some three hundred 
houses. It required not 
only a large amount of 
capital, but unbounded 
faith in the future. The 
only transportation was 
the Evanston branch of 
the Chicago, Milwaukee 
& St. Paul Railroad, with 
terminus at the Union 
Depot. In 1893, the elec- 
tric surface road was 
opened. Many of us re- 
call the delight with which 
we hailed this buzzing innovator, whose bumblebeeish vibrations 
were as music to the ears of the long-suffering ' better transportation' 
advocate. Then the 'trolley-parties' with which the road favored 
its patrons ! We recall how the single track, interspersed here and 
there with convenient sidings, pushed through byways, tangled and 
overgrown with brushwood and trees. In the open car, on a summer 
evening, this ride was particularly enjoyable, for trees and bushes 
reaching out on either side swished against the invader in musical 
protest, while the air was fragrant with woodsy sweets, and between 
whiles, the Lake might be seen under the silvered sheen of moonlight. 
Now the North Western Elevated carries a host of patrons over the 
original Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul tracks. 

"While on this subject of transportation, a word for the enterprise 
of Chicago's first railroad (1848), now generally designated as the 
Chicago & North Western. It has passed through so many vicissi- 




SILVER BIRCHES 



Page hundred and forty-two 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

tudes that its evolution into the road of today reads like romance. 
Witness now its finely equipped Milwaukee Division, for this has 
been a power in the development of the North Shore suburbs and 
towns. Its fine embankments and subways, its artistic stations in 
an environment of parkway and gardens, have all helped toward 
evolution from the country village, with its primitive methods, to 
the fair and progressive suburbs of the city and the prosperous towns 
and cities beyond." 

Future traditions of Edgewater will ever be associated with the 
fact that here, in "Paradise Flat," lived and wrote and died, the 
talented authoress and deeply lamented Myrtle Reed. 

Evanston is a beautiful city, ideal in its preservation of the forest 
trees and in its system of well-paved and neatly kept thoroughfares. 
The stranger is impressed with the fact that each individual Evan- 
stonian takes a personal pride in the neat appearance of his city. 
There are many beautiful homes, many dear, old-fashioned structures, 
as well as those of more modern design and imposing appearance; 
but all in an environment of emerald lawn, graceful shrub, clinging 
vine and stately trees. The immediate Lake front has been preserved 
for park purposes, considerable land having been redeemed from the 
Lake itself; the famous Sheridan Road, as a rule, forming the western 
boundary of this most perfect system of devoting a choice stretch 
of land to the public good. This highway, which extends for thirty 
miles northward from Chicago — it being a part of the latter's boule- 
vard system — was conceived by an Evanstonian, the late Volney W. 
Foster. Evanston 's beginnings center in the history of its University, 
five hundred and sixty acres being purchased by the trustees in 1854, 
for the purpose of developing this higher class education, and the 
growth of the university is, to a certain extent, the development of 
the city itself. Founded in love and in sincerity, is it wonder that 
Evanston should later become known as the "classic" city of the 
West? It received its name in honor of Dr. John Evans, who took 
a very active part in securing the site for the University. Ten 
students in a frame building in 1855! Over four thousand in hand- 
some brick and stone edifices in 1911! 

The highways and byways of the past in Evanston are of unusual 
interest, and its Historical Society has been active in perpetuating 
memories of the native people that roamed at will through its superb 
forest environment, hunting the deer or other animals then familiar 
to its vicinity. Besides the ever-present trail, the natural highway 
of the Indian, has, as in other places along the North Shore, been 
appropriated by the white man, and converted into well-paved 
streets and boulevards, along which the automobile has taken right 
of way; while Indian mounds and graves have been found in many 
localities within the boundary of the city. Within two miles of its 
limits, Father Pinet, in 1696, had his "Mission of the Guardian 
Angel" among the Miami Indians, and here, in 1699, he was visited 
by Saint Cosme and others, with Henry de Tonty as guide and pro- 
tector, while on their way to the Illinois country, via the Chicago 
portage. 



Page hundred and forty-three 




Page hundred and forty-four 




THE LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB 
Glencoe, 111. 



THE FAVORITE PASTIME ON THE 
NORTH SHORE 

"The Royal and Ancient Game of Goff" 

GOLF, or "goff," as it was designated in ancient Scotland, was 
a pastime of record not only in Scotland but in England, long 
before Columbus discovered America. Twelve years previous 
to the landing of the Pilgrims a golf club had been established at 
Blackheath, London, a site teeming with historic interest in the 
traditions of Great Britain. 

Ten years before Marquette passed in view of our North Shore, the 
most famous of all golf clubs, that of St. Andrews, was established 
in Scotland — for it is practically of Scotch origin — it is known as a 
fascinating sport, so much so, that in 1457 a note of alarm was sounded 
because of the fear that "the most important pursuit of archery" 
would be neglected on its account. And soon a Scottish Act of 
Parliament decreed that " futeball and golfe be utterly cryit down 
and nocht usit." 

No particular attention seems to have been given to this decree, 
however, and a stronger one was issued in which "futeball and golfe" 
are "forbidden." This edict was signed by James the Fourth, but 
it was not long before this monarch became so infatuated with the 



Page hundred and forty-five 




Page hundred and forty-six 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 




Photo by Bemm 



"THE ELM" 

GLEN VIEW CLUB HOUSE 

Golf, 111. 



game that he set his own command at defiance and "joyneth" in 
the "unprofitable sport." This monarch comes down to tradition 
associated with golf as the first royal personage formally figuring 
in the game. 

James the Fifth and his daughter, the unhappy Mary Stuart, 
also played golf. The latter was charged by her enemies in show- 
ing a "shameless indifference" to the fate of her husband, when a 
few days after his tragical end, she was seen "golfing." Charles the 
First and his brother, Prince Henry, were devotees of the game. 
This unfortunate monarch, while in the hands of the Scots at New- 

Page hundred and forty-seven 




"REDCROFT" 

HOME OF MR. FREDERIC W. UPHAM 

Golf, 111. 




"REDCROFT" 

HOME OF MR. FREDERIC W. UPHAM 

Golf, 111. 



Page hundred and forty-eight 




-J& ■ *■ •- - ■'- ' J 



Page'Jiundred and forty-nine 




GLEN VIEW CLU] 
"Apartment R" 




GLEN VIEW CLUB 
"The Elm" and "Apartment C 



Page hundred and fifty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PA ST AND PRESENT 

castle and awaiting their surrender of his person to the English 
Parliament, found much diversion in this ancient game. The golf 
ball at this period was a circlet of leather, roughly stitched together 
in sections, and containing a stuffing of feathers packed so tightly 
as to render it as hard as a stone. It was twice the size of the present 
ball and much less durable. 

India, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the United States 
m fact, everywhere that Scots congregate, cometh the sport that 
imparts health and vigor, and which affords splendid relaxation 
after sedentary habits connected with business. The fact that 
women are taking an active part in the game predicts much for the 
future, as this outdoor sport involves a covering of distances on foot, 
an exercise which the women, as a rule, eschew. 

It is little wonder that the North Shore, with its reaches of undulat- 
ing country, should have proven a golfer's paradise. Whether Scots 
were the originators of the sport in this particular vicinity, the writer 
is not prepared to state, but the golf links are here and in an environ- 
ment that even bonnie Scotland itself cannot outdo. 

Lake Forest has its Onwentsia, Highland Park its Exmoor golf 
links, both on sites that are exceedingly beautiful. While the Lake 
Shore Country Club and the Skokie Club of Glencoe are on sites 
designated by their individual titles, each in its own particular environ- 
ment of scenic charm. The Evanston Golf Club has its links adjacent 
to the drainage canal. The Glen View Club is a few miles west of 
Evanston and on a very historic site. The North Branch of the 
Chicago River passes through the links, and is suggestive of "trouble." 
In the grounds and overlooking the links are two structures of Eliza- 
bethan style of architecture. These are designated "Apartments 
B and C," and are rented by members wishing to sojourn here with 
their families. Apartment A was originally a brick farm house. 

Here to the wilderness in 1836 came Robert Dewes. His family 
French Huguenots, had held farmlands in Yorkshire, England, for 
three hundred years. Descendants are still there. In the brick 
house on the golf grounds was born the son of the pioneer farmer 
in 1846. John Dewes sold the property to the Glen View Club. 
Mr. Dewes now lives in a brick home on a rising slope just west of 
the links, and with acreage enough to keep him occupied. For, as 
he says, he is a "born farmer" and therefore feels the need of living 
m close acquaintance with the soil. Another member of the family 
an uncle of the present representative, also came to Chicago in the 
early thirties, and was offered a tract of eighty acres for one dollar 
and a quarter per acre, on what is now Lake Street west of the river 
There is a little log cabin, built in 1836, for an Englishman by the 
name of Swales, who was associated with Mr. Dewes' father. 

The Glen View golf grounds occupy the site of the farm that 
followed Indian occupation of the land. It is a site of intense 
interest, traditionally, for here was a very important Indian village 
and the earth has yielded relics of a past with which the average 
man is totally unfamiliar. The balconies of the club house afford 
vistas of this undulating country, and here is inspiration for both 
poet and artist. 



Page hundred and fifty-one 




GLEN VIEW LINKS 
'Sweet Home" and the "Ball Bearing Stream' 




LOG CABIN 
Glen View Club 



Page hundred and fifty-two 




lirffitei 



**$ 




««s^ 




THE SKOKIE COUNTRY CLUB 
i. The Entrance. 2. The Club House. 3. The Summer House. 



Page hundred and fifty-three 




Page hundred and fifty-four 




MICHAEL SWEENEY LOG CABIN 
Fort Sheridan, 111. 



PASSING VISTAS 

It is necessary to look forward as well as backward. 

Madame de Stael 

ROCKLAND was the name of a little station on the west side of 
the Chicago and Northwestern Railway, and somewhat north 
of the present Lake Bluff station. After twenty years of service 
it merged its identity into that of Lake Bluff, which in 1877, had 
become a Methodist camp meeting ground. The position on the bluff 
and its proximity to the Lake became sponsor for the newer name. 
Later, Lake Bluff became the western Chautauqua center and large 
crowds gathered on this picturesque site each season. Its great audi- 
torium stood in an environment of forest and from its platform were 
heard many of the leading orators of the day. It suffered a period 
of depression and financial hindrance, and in 1895, the "Lake Bluff 
Camp Meeting Association" surrendered control of the property, 
which then became incorporated as a village. Many improvements 
have been made in an up-to-date spirit, and Lake Bluff, with its 
charming location, promises much in its future evolution toward 
home-building. 



Page hundred and fifty-five 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



About six miles south of Lake Bluff is Fort Sheridan, said to be 
the model military station of the United States. Its inception came 
in 1887, when an association comprised of Chicago's prominent busi- 
ness men, realized the time had arrived when urgent need demanded 
that a military post of some importance be established within con- 
venient distance of the city. To this end, funds were raised to pur- 
chase a tract of three hundred and fifty acres, located between the 
railroad and the Lake. This tract was donated to the Government, 
and by Act of Congress it was named in honor of the hero, General 
Philip H. Sheridan. It is one of the most picturesque sites and its 
original beauty of contour has been faithfully preserved. Additional 
acres have been added until the reservation embraces about one 
thousand. Its architectural features are excellent, and an appropria- 
tion is being sought for further improvements. These will add materi- 
ally to its present facilities for accommodation of numbers, and it 
will make Fort Sheridan the best equipped military post in the world. 
The famous Sheridan Road takes its way through the reservation 
over finely bridged ravines. 

This tract of land has its traditions. On the site now occupied 
by the Post Cemetery, the woodman's ax awakened the echoes in 
1840, and soon the pioneer structure of logs was seen in a small 
clearing, and Benjamin Marks possessed a home in the North Shore 
wilderness. Four years later Michael Sweeney came into the dense 
timber growth between the Lake and the old trail or military road. 
Now another little brown structure came into existence. This 
memento of early pioneer days, is still seen just southwest of the 
handsome station of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway at Fort 
Sheridan. In the early fifties the railroad cut this acreage in two. 
Mr. Sweeney, who had purchased his acres from the government, 
arrived in an ox wagon in the late summer of 1844. He died in 
September, 1909, but is survived by his widow and eight children, 
two of the latter, Mr. William and Miss Frances, occupy, with their 
mother, the spacious brick home, near the site of the former log cabin, 
to which the latter had come as a bride. This modern home is on 
a gentle elevation and in a delightful environment of lawn and 
woodland. One is impressed with the care evidenced in the preser- 
vation of the natural tree growth and the pioneer orchard — the first 
apple tree being still tenderly nurtured in remembrance of the hand 
that planted and fostered it. 

High wood was projected in 1871, and the writer recalls the days 
of its pretty suburban existence. Mrs. Holden (the "Amber" of 
blessed memory) dwelt here, writing those delightful little heart 
touches under the title of "Amber Beads," as well as other essays 
of equal interest. High wood seemed to lose its identity after Fort 
Sheridan was established. But efforts are being made toward its 
rehabilitation. The lay of the land is delightful and the deserted 
village aspect should at once be corrected, by a well-organized effort 
toward home-building, and its evolution into one of the beauty spots 
of the North Shore, for Highwood has undiscovered possibilities. 



Page hundred and fifty-six 







Pag^ hundred and fifty-seven 




Page hundred and fifty-eig 




RAVINE AT "THE MORAINE' 



EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY 

"Many of the most valuable discoveries have been the work of chance." 

Cotton. 

IS it not true that the particular designation of a site serves either 
to attract or repel? While on an electric car headed northward, 

and just beyond the immaculate and famous "Crab Tree Farm," 
there flashed across the vision the word "Lakewoods!" It was a 
title on a signboard, the latter having no objectionable feature in 
its composition, but impressing one with the conviction that refine- 
ment of taste originated its design. 

"Lakewoods!" It suggested to the imagination something more 
tender than "forest" growth. "Woods!" We may be lost in the 
forest; we may roam without fear through the woods. With these 
thoughts uppermost, the conductor is instructed to stop at the "very 
next station." By me troth! The same is familiar, for it was noth- 
ing more nor less than Downey's Crossing at the southwest corner of 
the beautiful parade grounds of the Great Lakes Naval Training 
Station, the Sheridan Road forming the dividing line. 

This famous driveway offered a good footpath southward. The 
stout fencing of wire forbade intrusion upon this lovely domain with 



Page hundred and fifty-nine 




Page hundred and sixty 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS— PAST AND PRESENT 

its waving undulations and belts of timber that called forth exclama- 
tions of delight, as well as an irresistable desire for exploration of its 
hidden recesses. Presently, after a delightful tramp of about half a 
mile a gate is discovered, and oh, joy! it stands at an inviting "ajar" 
angle — just room to squeeze through ! 

Through? Yes, and following an old wagon trail the explorers — 
for there are two (He and She) — find themselves trending eastward 
through a valley of perfect delight. It is one of those wonderful 
ravine formations, without any perceptible descent into it and with 
the contour of its sides broken into slopes that appear to trend off 
into lost distances. Each and every slope has its peculiar charm of 
woodland, and just now, Autumn had touched the foliage with an 
indescribable charm. See the maples yonder! How they revel in 
their glory of gold ! And what an inspiration they are in their uplift 
of gladsomeness ! And the number of them! Here, enthroned by a 
group of courtly satellites all garbed in liveries of splendor, is a queen 
of the woods. See how the flakes of gold float, as 'twere, between 
earth and heaven. Later, they will become the sport of the winds. 

The atmosphere is charged with woodsy sweets, such as only 
Autumn distils. It is reminiscent of an old cedar chest in which 
dried -rose leaves and lavender, sweet marjory and thyme all com- 
bine, with no particular essence predominating. Hark! 'Tis the 
whisper of waters. Only a brooklet, clear and deep, but quickly 
pursuing its onward way between a growth that helps to conceal 
its course. It is not, as tradition asserts of its kind, a "babbling 
brook." Like the Indian, it learned to be stealthy. So it just 
whispers, low yet musically, fearing that some scientific explorer 
may happen along and propose to harness it for a purpose. Poor 
little brook! How nervously you swish beneath the primitive bridge 
of logs and rude planks! 

She: — "This byway, in the long ago, was an Indian trail." 

He: — "Quite possible. Let's hunt for spear-heads, arrow-heads 
and the like." She shakes her head as an intimation that she realizes 
the little vein of irony in his proposition, and continues the tramp 
onward. 

"There! There it is!" And there was an " I-told-you-so!" 
implied by the tone of voice. But, presently, both He and She, 
delighted and proud, are chuckling before this magnificent old trail 
tree. Close at hand there is water, a spring to all appearance. It 
is probably the source of the low-purling brook which has been 
crossed and re-crossed on their trend eastward. 

There is now a gentle slope upward, but the explorers, like their 
predecessors of old, thinking they are heading in a particular direc- 
tion, discover a surprise, but not the one they had set out to find. 
The ravine, or " Valley Road," as they designated it on their "charts," 
did not have its terminal at the Lake shore. It has surreptitiously 
vanished beneath their feet and they find themselves on a plateau 
of untold possibilities in its suggestion for a country seat. To tell 
the truth, our explorers had expected to find something of the kind 
already here, as the highway by which they had come was a well- 
defined wagon road, not having been used perhaps for some twenty 



Page hundred and sixty-one 




Page hundred and sixty-two 




Page hundred and sixty-three 




Page hundred and sixty-four 



H£G_HJWA^ S AND BYWAYS-P AST AND PRESENT 

years But the problem of the road is solved. Observation of the 
Deautirul Lakewoods" site imparts this solution: 

That here, the Indian had a paradise along the North Shore -trails 
ran m and out like a network. After the Indian, one leading trail 
was used by the hunter and then covered by a wagon road and 
much later, it received a covering of slag, and primitive bridges were 
built across th^e brook. For what purpose? That wood for fuel 
might be conveyed to the railroad. The trees tell the story. Manv 
old monarchs have been slain. Some Yew remain. While the second 
growth is now attaining its glory. The woods are, for this reason 
beautiful and promising in their rich variety. Groups of hemlock 
growth are here, as well as the richest development of hickory trees 
found in so close a proximity to the Lake along the North Shore 
One old trail tree lay prone. It must have been a marvel when 
standing. Seated on its trunk, the crooked part forming a support 
to the back, the explorers became familiar with the feathered tribe 
haunting these particular woods. Allowing that many had migrated 
southward, there remained variety enough to afford pleasurable 
entertainment. 

4.1. I hC ? U ? itSelf is finely scul Ptured, and has wooded inlets from 
the beach that suggest great possibilities to the landscape architect 
One of these in particular, has a well-defined trail, descending from 
the plateau, and continuing at a very gentle slope to the beach. 
Ine red man undoubtedly originated this byway, and the white 
hunter followed its lead. 

"Lakewoods" is all that its title implies, woods by the lake 
The contour of this mile of frontage, and half a mile of depth is so 
varied and so entrancing that its future as a site for country seats 
to those desiring frontage, either on the Lake or Sheridan Road is 
assured. The automobile or the horse will solve the question 'of 
living remote from the railway station. 




LAKE FROM PORCH OF "THE MORAINE' 
Highland Park 



Page hundred and sixty-five 




< "I 

O 0! 

Q M 

» -S 

< .S 

ea 

< rt 
« 5 

« s 



Page hundred and sixty-six 




CONGRESSMAN FOSS RECEIVING BATTALION 
(Administration Building and Officers' 
Quarters in Background.) 



THE GREAT LAKES NAVAL 
TRAINING STATION 

I sing the sailor of the sea, breed of the oaken heart, 
Who drew our world together and spread the race apart. 

T. F. Day 

CONGRESSMAN GEORGE EDMUND FOSS and the late 
Graeme Stewart made no error of judgment when as delegates 
to Washington they urged the merits of a particular site on our 
beautiful North Shore, as one of desirability for the Great Lakes 
Naval Station. The members of the Merchants and Commercial Clubs 
of Chicago are also to be congratulated on their enterprise in pur- 
chasing this tract of one hundred and eighty-two acres, and donating 
it to the Government for the purpose named. 

Thus far, the total amount expended for the construction of the 
station, is $3,475,000. This station is located about half a mile south 
of the incorporated village of North Chicago, and a mile and a half 
north of Lake Bluff. It is on a plateau about eighty feet above Lake 
Michigan and commanding an expansive view of the waters. Here, 
where a ravine intersects the property, has been built a good harbor, 
while the ravine itself has been evolved into the most picturesque 



Page hundred and sixty-seven 




Page hundred and sixty-eight 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 



lagoon, both harbor and lagoon serving its purpose for training in 
the art of naval seamanship. On the beach is located a powerhouse 
and pumping station. It is right within shelter of the high bluff 
and forms no detriment to the scenic beauty of the site itself nor to 
adjoining properties. 

All the structures are of the most classic type, substantial and 
imposing by reason of their very simplicity. They are as fireproof 
as construction warrants, steam-heated and lighted by electricity. 
The Administration building with its tower reaching an altitude of 
300 feet above the bluff, commands a wide view of the water from 
the east, and stretches of upland and prairie, forest and dreamy 





ADMINISTRATION BUILDING 
(West Entrance) 



SKYLARKING WHILE OFF DUTY 



woodlands to the west. From the entrance gate looking east this, 
building is about a mile distant, and as the visitor walks over fine,' 
broad cement walks in this direction he is greeted by group after 
group of structures facing the parade ground, that are in perfect 
harmony in every detail with the central structure. Along the edge 
of the bluff are placed the homes of the officers, the admiral's home 
commanding the central point. 

There is a fine drill hall and a mess hall, the entrance to the latter 
might be that of a palace of the renaissance period. A magnificent 
auditorium, fitted with a stage in proportion to its dimensions, where 
entertainments as well as religious services are held and where verbal 
instruction relating to the various branches of the service is given. 
Entering the dormitories one becomes impressed with the absence of 
cots. Looking upward, a series of queer-looking tackle, neat and 
orderly in appearance, but suspended within a few inches of the 



Page hzmdred and sixty-nine 




Awaiting Drill Call, front of Drill Hall 




South Entrance to Mess Hall 




Signal Drill on the Receiving Group 
GREAT LAKES NAVAL TRAINING STATION 



Page hundred and seventy 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

ceiling is seen. At night these being lowered, develop into hammocks. 
For our candidate for naval development must be no coddled, feather- 
bed sailor! It also requires courage to go under the shower in the 
morning! 

The kitchen — designated galley — is equipped with everything that 
is up-to-date in the culinary art, and so immaculate that one almost 
feared to set foot on the floor; while the bakery, with its automatic 
dough mixer and dough trough, its mechanical cream whipper and 
egg beater is as good as an appetizer. A fine gymnasium, fully equipped, 
and containing devices for boom swinging, as well as a speedway, a 
swimming pool and a bowling alley, all contribute recreation as well 
as instruction. 

The acres composing this site are enclosed by a high wrought- 
iron fence on a base of masonry, presenting with its enclosure of 
shrub growth and neatness of approach from whichever direction, 
features that will prove a valuable asset to the future upbuilding of 
the immediate vicinity. 

For three weeks after the recruit is accepted, he is not allowed 
outside the station. During this time the rough edges are toned 
down and he has become accustomed to the rigid discipline, and at 
recreation moments, he may, perhaps, be found prone on the grass, 
battling with homesickness, or undergoing a tug with his inner con- 
sciousness of the conditions to which he has bound himself. If he 
is built of the right stuff, and this is the environment where the test 
becomes critical, he gradually falls into the routine of duty and 
begins to view life under a different aspect. 

He now feels he is pressing toward a goal, for at the end of three 
months he will be drafted to one of the various ships of the United 
States Navy. In the meantime he has acquired considerable control 
of himself, has learned to accomplish, and begins to feel he has a pur- 
pose in life. His figure shows the effect of physical training, his 
cheeks have assumed a ruddy hue, his eyes are bright with enthusiasm, 
and love for the flag has become a religion. During all this time he 
has slept in a hammock, has fed upon wholesome rations neither too 
much nor too little. He has had lots of pleasure, too, football and 
other sports, and his immaculate white uniform has now become a 
matter for pride and he glories in the fact that he is associated with 
an arm of the Government service entitled to respectful consideration. 

O Jackies of the Great Lakes Naval Training Station, may war 
never come! Yet if it should, the nation will find you are better 
fighters, braver, more courageous and intrepid, from your sojourn on 
our beautiful North Shore! 

Future traditions will incorporate the visit of the Hon. William H. 
Taft, President of the United States, who, on October 28, 191 1, 
dedicated the Naval Training Station to the "normal, physical and 
ethical development of the young men of the nation." Legends will 
tell of the reverberating echoes along the North Shore as heavy guns 
welcomed the coming of a President; of his greeting to an elderly 
woman who had known him some forty years ago ; of how the Jackies 
in a thin white line advanced upon the encroaching crowd causing it 
to fall back in an orderly manner. 



Page hundred and seventy-one 



Indian Trail Tree at Lake Bluff, 111. 

THE CITY OF WAUKEGAN— ITS LEGENDS 
AND TRADITIONS 

O'er that which hath been and o'er that which must be; 
What we have seen our sons shall see; 
Remnants of things that have passed away, 
Fragments of stone reared by creatures of clay. 

Byron. 

THE "Little Fort" of the pioneer is Waukegan of today. "Little 
Fort" received mention in a history of the United States, pub- 
lished in London, 1795. There is also a map in this old work, 
made according to the treaty of 1783. Two places are indicated on 
the western shore of Lake Michigan, Chicago and Little Fort, the 
latter being designated at the mouth of a stream — Old Fort River. 
It is but natural to infer then, that previous to 1783, there was a 
fort of much older significance, than that which is later brought 
to notice. 

Tradition cherishes the probability of La Salle and one or more 
of his company having been in this immediate vicinity in 1679. Did 
he build a fort here? And was this "Old Fort" to which reference 
is made in the early English map? La Salle's scheme, as we know, 
was to erect a chain of forts from Lake Ontario to the mouth of 
the Mississippi, and so establish the supreme right of France to reign 
over this broad inland territory. 

When the very earliest settlers — hunters and traders, principally — 
came among the Indians, on the site now covered by the city of 
Waukegan, legends were not wanting in the confirmation of the 
supposition that La Salle here builded a fort. The descendants of 
the tribes occupying this vicinity in the seventeenth century, per- 
sisted in the statement that an Indian village of some pretentions, 



Page hundred and seventy-two 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 



existed in this neighborhood at the time the "Old Fort" was erected. 
That the designation of " Little Fort" was used by the Pottawattomies 
to distinguish the latter and its location from the earlier structure and 
its site. This legend was again and again detailed to the early settlers, 
and is rightly cherished by their descendants. 

These settlers found decaying timbers enough, together with some 
rude earthworks, to verify the fact of the existence of the " Little 
Fort." It had probably been^ erected by hunters and traders as a 
protection against, or an intimidation toward any hostilities on the 
part of the Indians. This rude stockade enclosure stood at the inter- 
section of Water Street and Sheridan Road, Waukegan. 

It is also interesting to be able to confirm the existence of this 
latter structure previous to 1825. One, William Hamilton, drove a 
herd of cattle from Springfield, Illinois, to Green Bay, Wisconsin, in 
the year named, following, from Chicago, the Lake as closely as 
possible, though not immediately on its shore. Mr. Hamilton clearly 
stated that these ruins were designated "Little Fort." He is not 
very clear, however, in speaking of distances, although he describes 
the location. Undoubtedly, this was one of his landmarks by the 
way, as he was taking cattle to a detachment of the United States 
soldiery, then stationed at Green Bay, and his instructions as to the 
highway he should follow, as well as of the particular landmarks by 
which he might recognize the same, would be explicit. This is why 
that of "Little Fort" remained in his memory. It was a distin- 
guishing object of guidance along the route. 

The acknowledgment in the old English book of a stream here 
designated as "Old -Fort River" would indicate the existence of a 
well known fort in this vicinity, while the ruins of "Little Fort," 
together with the rich yield of Indian relics, spear-heads, arrow-heads, 
tomahawks, and even skeletons, together with bits of wrought metal 
suggestive of accoutrements worn by the French soldiery of La Salle's 
day, are all strong links in a chain of evidence of the site of Wau- 
kegan being rife with traditional import. This atmosphere yet lingers. 
The student of research becomes possessed with an intense desire to 
dig and to delve, until the secret of that which is now vague and 
mysterious be forced to the open. For Waukegan of today, is an 
association of past with present; of the yesterday treading closely 
upon the heels of today. It is old, it is new; it is youthful yet aged; 
it puzzles, it distracts, this city by the lake which retains its Indian 
title. 

The early settlers aspired to build a city that should become of 
some importance as a shipping point. With this end in view, a com- 
pany was organized in Chicago as early as 1835. O ne °f its members, 
Thomas Jenkins, became Waukegan 's pioneer merchant and the 
builder of the first frame structure in the township. Tradition locates 
it within shelter of the bluff just north of the big ravine. The popu- 
lation of "Little Fort," at this period, was represented by those who 
inhabited the five log cabins and who worked in the very unpre- 
tentious sawmill. 

By vote of the people, Little Fort obtaining a majority of 188 
out of 744 votes, the county seat, on April 13, 1841, was established 



Page hundred and seventy-three 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



here. Feeling ran high at this change of location on the Lake, and 
for years the resentment made itself felt in political issues. One 
hundred and sixty acres at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre 
were pre-empted for the county seat. Those who possessed claims 
upon the chosen site showed their appreciation of the conditions by 
releasing them in favor of the county. 

The latter had no funds in its treasury wherewith to make the 
purchase, but it had been whispered among those directly interested, 
that one of the pioneers had been heard to say that he had two 
hundred dollars in gold, which the commissioners might have as a 
loan. And Elmsley Sunderlin became immortalized in the traditions 
of Lake County. He was a live, active worker for progression, and 
Waukegan owes much to just such men of this period, that earnestly 
worked for the good of the community at large. The first courthouse 
was destroyed by fire in 1875. In 1887 the present courthouse was 
erected at a cost of forty thousand dollars. It is barely large enough 
at the present time to meet its requirements. 

In connection with the changing of the county seat to "Little Fort" 
there are many incidents worthy of record. The "For Burlington" 
people charged the "For Little Fort" contingent with illegal voting, 
which was easily and readily disproved. Then followed a question 
of legal technicalities, and Dr. Richard Murphy, the first resident of 
Lake County to represent the people in the Illinois legislature, secured 
the passage of an Act declaring the county seat should be considered 
permanently established at "Little Fort." Captain Morris Robinson, 
who had been one of the active workers toward this end, resolved 
to go to Springfield to also urge the passing of this Act. 

It was mid-winter, and the legend runs that neither he nor his 
friends in or about "Little Fort" had a horse available for the trip. 
Nothing daunted, the enthusiastic pioneer set out on foot. Much of 
his life had been spent on the sea, but pioneering had developed a 
love for walking and he footed it to Springfield, ever after boasting 
that he had beat the stage from Chicago by two days! 

"Little Fort Porcupine and Democratic Banner" was the pioneer 
newspaper. Its distinguishing insignia was a wood engraving, repre- 
senting a porcupine with quills set in battle array, intimating the 
spirit of its projectors, who fearlessly hit right and left, regardless of 
political party, and pricked the pride and temper, if not the con- 
sciences, of all public officials, who, in its estimation, stood in need 
of editorial lambasting. Its initial number, issued March 4, 1845, 
proclaims the fact, that in Little Fort, at that time, there were 452 
inhabitants, three commodious public houses, seven stores, two black- 
smith shops, one tin and sheet iron factory, two shoe shops, three 
tailor shops, one chair and cabinet factory, three warehouses, one pier 
and a second being constructed, and two brickyards. In this same 
number is also the following introductory: 

"Today, March 4th, is notable for two things. It is inauguration 
day with President Polk and Vice-President Dallas, as well as with 
'Little Fort Porcupine and Democratic Banner.' Great day this at 
Little Fort and Washington!" The paper does not seem to have 
met with all the encouragement the enterprise deserved, for on April 
1 6th of the same year, appears the following: 

Page hundred and seventy-four 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

" Eugene Sue in his new work, 'The Wandering Jew,' endeavors 
to show that this being is to wander over every foot of earth, try 
every imaginable plain of life, occupy all stations and to drain to the 
dregs the cup of each conceivable misery. We wonder if the punish- 
ment can be complete without he published a newspaper at 'Little 
Fort'!" 

"Little Fort" having attained a population of 2,500, sought incor- 
poration as a village, desiring, also, that the Act of Incorporation 
provide for the change in its title, to that of the Pottawattomie 
equivalent, Waukegan, and by an Act of the Legislature, February 12, 
1849, these petitions were granted. 

New Year's Day, 1855, is incorporated in the traditions of Wau- 
kegan as the beginning of a new era. For the high bluffs upon which 
the city of today stands, became conscious of an unusual tremor and 
vibration, as smoothly gliding over a magic trail, at their base, came 
the advance guard of a new order. The iron horse snorts with satis- 
faction, and every now and again, gives vent to bursts of exhilaration 
as it appropriates the right of way, inch by inch, over the highway 
of accommodation and commerce. It has urged its way northward 
over part of an historic by-way, which of necessity it has cut in two 
here, and paralleled there, but the adjoining wooded heights now 
catch the rhythmic melody of its joyous progress, and " Hap-py-New- 
Year! Hap-py-New-Year! Fair-Waukegan ! New-Wau-ke-gan" is 
projected through and over the site, where, but yesterday, the Indian 
was lord of the soil, and where tradition avers that the ambitious 
ambassador from France erected the fort, which in a little more than 
a century afterward, was designated on the English map as "Old." 

Many legends are still afloat regarding the method of transporta- 
tion during the period of railroad construction. Stage routes were 
established between Milwaukee and Waukegan, and between the 
latter and the nearest point of approach of the railroad, each trip of 
the stage being shortened according to the closer reach of the rail- 
road. A twelve mile walk was nothing in those days, and men and 
women in these earlier times more frequently "rode shank's mare," 
covering distances which today is looked upon as impossible. 

On January eleventh of this same year, Waukegan resolved itself 
into the position of host and hostess and gave a party in commemora- 
tion of the coming of the railroad. The day before, a detachment of 
artillery, under -Lieutenant Hadley, had arrived from Chicago, to take 
part in the celebration. On the morning of the eleventh Old Sol 
emerged from the far horizon of the Lake, in very gracious mood. 
The waters were touched with regal splendor, the corrugated bluffs 
smiled and dimpled in response, while the forests stood etched against 
a sky-line of .ethereal blue. It was "unusual weather," and as such 
has found its way into tradition. 

It is now noon and the "special" from Chicago, composed of a 
train of flat cars, bearing officials and guests to the celebration will 
soon hove in view. And right on time it came — at half past twelve 
— having covered the distance — 35 miles — in two hours and a half! 
Quick time in that early day. A boom of cannon, the cheers of the 
enthusiastic people, and a band of music proclaimed its arrival. 



Page hundred and seventy-five 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



Imagine what an event this was to the pioneers and their families! 
Many of whom were seeing a locomotive for the first time! Yes, 
little by little, the east was being linked with the west and then they 
would not seem so far apart. A procession to the courthouse square 
where speeches were made, a banquet, at which four hundred partici- 
pated, and a ball in the evening, closed a memorable day in the his- 
tory of Waukegan. 

Later, over the steel trail, came the Hon. Stephen Douglas, address- 
ing an audience from an improvised platform close to the railroad 
station. Mr. Douglas had been a visitor before the coming of the 
railroad, addressing a large audience from the courthouse square. 
The second of April, i860, Abraham Lincoln spoke to a large audi- 
ence in Dickinson Hall. He was warmly welcomed, for already Mr. 
Lincoln was looked upon as a possible candidate for the presidency. 
"The Waukegan Gazette," however (a live paper today), named 
Lincoln for second place on the ticket, giving preference to Simon 
Cameron as president. The Hon. C. A. Partridge, in his reminiscent 
mood of this particular occasion, writes, in his valuable " History of 
Lake County:" 

" Looking back upon it, and remembering that this gathering was 
but six weeks prior to the date set for the convention in which Mr. 
Lincoln was finally named for the highest office in the gift of the 
American people, and that the very air was surcharged with political 
excitement and with forebodings of the great military struggle so 
soon to begin, it seems remarkable that all mention of the meeting 
in the local paper was confined to a brief paragraph." 

During Mr. Lincoln's speech there came the ominous sound of the 
firebell. Naturally, the audience evinced symptoms of uneasiness. 
The chairman, Hon. E. P. Ferry, endeavored to allay the fears of 
the audience by remarking that there was no cause for alarm for it 
was but a practical joke on the part of political opponents in an 
endeavor to break up the meeting, and begged the distinguished 
speaker to proceed. But Mr. Lincoln had caught sight of the red 
glare from without, and in his quiet manner, said: "I think there 
is a fire. You had better go and try to save the property. I can 
come some other time and speak to you." With a few friends and 
from a point of vantage on the beach Mr. Lincoln witnessed the 
destruction of a warehouse on the lake shore. 

For a number of years before the coming of the railroad Waukegan 
had been considered a thriving shipping port. Before its first pier 
was constructed, in the summer of 1841, passengers- and freight had 
been transferred from passing vessels to lighters. But not until 1845 
did steamboats come with any marked regularity. Each River and 
Harbor Bill since 1881 carried an appropriation for the maintenance 
and improvement of the harbor. 

Waukegan is about thirty-five miles north of Chicago. It had 
every advantage for the evolution of a City Beautiful, but was destined, 
even from its earliest incipiency, to become a City Commercial; and 
the "beautiful," except in instances, in which individual citizens and 
the City Fathers have striven to retain the rich gifts bestowed by 
Nature, lies in abeyance. 



Page hundred and seventy-six 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAY S — P AST AND PRESENT 



, At the base of its towering and picturesque bluffs is a stretch of 
smooth sandy beach from one-eighth to one-third of a mile in width. 
This latter has been appropriated to manufacturing purposes and the 
right of way of the railroad. The city itself is on the plateau above. 
Its streets are intersected by beautifully wooded ravines, which are 
bridged for convenience, and Sheridan Road takes its way along the 
bluff, commanding an expansive view of the Lake. Many of the 
early homes and a few of the most pretentious houses were built 
along this street, long, long before it became designated as a part of 
one of the world's famous driveways; and, perhaps, long before it 
was realized that an array of smokestacks, albeit out of direct view, 
might frequently veil the sapphire of the waters in a murk of smoke. 

Waukegan has well paved streets, up-to-date curbings and avenues 
rich with a fine maple growth. It has good schools, fine churches 
and a well built and artistic public library. In the basement of the 
latter are the headquarters of the Lake County Historical Society. 

A wealth of material is gathered here awaiting classification. 
Awaiting a -throb of responsive appreciation from the people of the 
county itself, who should, without unnecessary delay, awaken to the 
fact that it is absolutely essential, if they expect consideration in the 
archives of the future, to swell the membership of this small but 
enthusiastic organization, that is doing so much to preserve the 
traditions and legends of Lake County. 

When one realizes what has already been accomplished under 
difficulties, the assurance presents itself that Waukegan is destined 
in the near future to an evolution in which the artistic will touch 
elbow with the commercial, and laying hold of its many natural 
advantages, seek development in the interest of the utmost good for 
the greatest number, by making a city park which shall be unequalled 
in scenic beauty and picturesqueness by anything of the kind along 
the North Shore. 




Trail Tree at Glencoe, 111. 



Page hundred 
and seventy-seven 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Jesuit Relations, Thwaites. 

Early Voyages Mississippi, Shea. 

Indian Landmarks North Shore. Grover. 

Past and Present Lake County, Illinois, Haines. 

Lake County, Partridge. 

Old Newspaper Files. 

The Author also desires to express appreciation of the helpful courtesy 
shown by the Chicago Historical Society; by Mr. Robert M. Ingalls, Mr. C. 
T. Heydecker, and Miss Bess T. Bowers, all of Waukegan, 111., and to the 
descendants of the families of the early settlers. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Foreword S 

Highways and Byways Past and Present; 

The Highway is Opened 7 

Glimpses of Lake County 23 

Lake Forest, the College City of the North Shore 39 

Highland Park, the North Shore Pioneer of Country Seats S3 

The Highway Southward to Chicago 13 S 

The Favorite Pastime on the North Shore, "The Royal Game of Goff" 145 

Passing Vistas 155 

E xploration and Discovery 159 

The Great Lakes Naval Training Station 167 

The City of Waukegan, its Legends and Traditions 172 

Index to Illustrations 179, 180 



Page hundred and seventy-eight 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Alice Home, Lake Forest 18 

Bluffs at Ravinia Park 62 

Bridge at " Haven Wood," Lake Forest. . . 8 

"Broadly Sweeping Right and Left" iy 

Country Clubs — Onwentsia, Exmoor, Lake 

Shore, Skokie and Glen View 

23-37, 65, 144-15.? 

Diverging Highways 22 

Durand Commons, Lake Forest 45 

Durand Institute, Lake Forest 42 

Entrance to " Pine wold, " Lake Forest. . .Cover 

Fort Sheridan 154 

Gymnasium, Lake Forest 39 

Harlan and Blackstone Halls, Lake Forest. 44 

Heights'at "Miralago," Highand Park... 2 

High School, Highland Park 58 

Index — Homes and Gardens 180 

Indian Trail, Lakewoods 158 

Indian Trail Trees 136,138,172,177 

Interior North Shore Trust Company Bank, 

Highland Park 106 

Lake and the Forest 16 

Lake and Lawrence Avenue Crib 133 

Lake from the Lake Forest Park 20 

Lake from the Bluffs at Lakewoods 163 

Lake from "Moraine," Highland Park. . . . 165 

Lakewoods, Views in 157-165 



Lois Durand Hall, Lake Forest 48 

McCormicks' Bridge, Lake Forest 38 

Moonlight on Lake Michigan 6 

Naval Training Station, North Chicago. . . . 

166-170 

New Presbyterian Church, Highland Park. 53 

Old Port Clinton Lighthouse 54 

Ouilmette Country Club 116 

Parkway and Nursery, Highland Park 93 

ka\ ine, Highland Park 159 

Reid Hall, Lake Forest 40 

Reid Memorial Chapel, Lake Forest 40 

Reid Memorial Library, Lake Forest 50 

Roger Williams Avenue, Ravinia 64 

Stone Gate, Lake Forest 21 

Suggested Harbor at Lake Forest 52 

Sweeney Log Cabin, Fort Sheridan 155 

Trail to the Beach, Lakewoods 162 

Turn in the Road 15 

Union Church, Glencoe 10S 

Valley Road, Lakewoods 158 

Valley of the Skokie, Highland Park 87 

Vista in Lake Forest Park 17 

Waverly Avenue Bridge, Highland Park. . 56 

White Birches 142 

Wooded Bluffs 26 



Page hundred and seventy-nine 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

HOMES AND GARDENS 



Albright, Adam Emory 114 

Alexander, H. E 1 20, 1 2 1 

Armour, J. Ogden 7 

Bahr, Fritz 93, 107 

Beatty, R. J 102 

Cagney, James E 126 

Carpenter, A. A. Jr 12 

Carqueville, Alexander R 97 

Case, Frank A 130, 1,5 1 

Clarke, Henry Bertrande 7 4. 7 5 

Clements, Thomas 77 

Compton, F. E 109 

Couch, Ira J 146 

Curtis, John F. L 105 

Deerpath Inn 24 

DeMuth, Beni. F 78 

Dox, Charles E 149 

Dyer, George T 115 

Ebeling, George C : 107 

Everhart, George P 96 

Fahrney, Wm. H 128 

Fishback, Hon. Chas. F g,S. 99 

Fitzgerald, Burt J 108 

Foreman, Oscar G 1 1 1 

Frost, Charles S 14 

Glidden, Grace 102 

Gunder, S. H 127 

Hardin, John R 112,113 

Harrington, Stephen Harris 72, 73 

Hately, Walter C 94, 95 

Hawkins, Frank P 55 

Irwin, The Misses 104 

Kaempfer, Fred 118 



Kuppenheimer, J 28 

Latlin, Louis E 30 

Lynch, M 123 

Marsh, Marshall S 70 

McCormick, Harold Fowler 10, 11 

Metzel, E. B 79 

Moeng, E. D 1 24, 125 

Moras, Edmond R., M. D 66-69 

Patterson, J. W 24 

Ra y monrl , Jules N 119 

" Ridge wood " 88-92 

Ritchie, Mrs. H. R 104 

Roberts, Charles J 117 

Roberts, George W 100 

Seyfarth, Robert 103 

Shannon, Mrs. Maud Holbrook 104 

Shaw, J. B 134 

Smith, C. F. Mather 8i 

Smith, Robert S 135 

Squire, Benjamin A 122 

Terbell, J. B 82 

Thayer, Clarence Holmes 71 

Thayer, Henry J 76 

Tyner, E 83 

Upham, Frederic W 148 

Wardrop, Walter 103 

Washington, Alf no 

Watkins, Elias M 101 

Wean, Frank L 80 

Weinand, Mrs. John N 132 

Whitney, C. P 118 

Will, Dr. Harry Clayton 129 

Williams, Lucian M 84-86 



Page hundred and eighty 



22 191 J 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
NOV 22 Iff I 



